Because going from A to B in big European cities requires using public transportation, which can waste a lot of time, I always tend to choose relatively small cities. That’s why I knew when I visited Zagreb for the first time, I would come back at least one more time.
Zagreb is a city that blends art, culture, history, social life and nature very successfully inside its small structure. The historical texture of the city becomes much more significant when you stroll around its streets. Also, the cafes lined up along the streets are the perfect places to grab a bite, cool your heels and enjoy oneself. In addition, compared to most European cities the prices are quite reasonable.
We started touring the city from its heart, the meeting point for most of Zagreb residents, Ban Jelacic Square.
Ban Jelacic Square
The Square was built in the 17th century and named after Josip Jelacic, whose statue depicting him riding a horse was erected in the middle of the square. The statue was removed when Josip Jelacic was described as a “servant of foreign interests” in 1947 by the new government. Following this, the name of the square was changed to Republic Square. After the break-up of Yugoslavia and the elections in Croatia in 1990, the role of Jelcic in the city’s history was found important again and with a little change, the statue was re-erected in the square. When the statue first took its place in the square, the sword Jelic held was pointing to the north. In 1990, when the statue was erected in the square for the second time, the statue was adjusted so that the sword now points to the south. After the relocation of the statue, the square was again named Ban Jelacic Square.
The square hosts concerts, street performances, musicians and markets where hand made products are sold, and it reflects a very colorful scenery both during the day and at night. The square is surrounded by buildings that are inspired by different movements from classic to modern style. The history of the oldest building standing in the square goes back to the year 1827.
One side of the square leads to the Zagreb Cathedral and the other one to the Dolac Market. We chose to continue our tour towards the Zagreb Cathedral, one of the top attractions.
Zagreb Cathedral
Also known as St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Zagreb Cathedral is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, to the kings Saint Stephen and Saint Ladislaus. It is in typically Gothic style and has two towers which are higher than 100 meters. Built-in 1093 the cathedral was damaged badly many times because of the attacks of the Tatars, the earthquake and the war. It took its last form after the renovations done due to the damage of the 1880 Zagreb Earthquake. Both the interior and the exterior structure are very impressive.
The Holy Mary and Four Angels Column
Erected just in front of the cathedral, at the focus point of the square, the column will immediately catch your eye with the statues of the Virgin Mary and angels on it. The column and the statues were done by Croatian Anton Dominik Fernkorn in 1865, and the fountain underneath the column is added by the Austrian architect Hermann Bollew who finished the renovation of the cathedral between 1880 and 1882.
We left the cathedral and the square to go to the open market, Dolac Market which was very close by and is a must see in Zagreb.
Dolac Market
It’s an open market where you won’t hear the calls of the sellers to promote their products, there’s a steady crowd. Fresh veggies and fruits that are grown by locals, delicatessen including lots of varieties of cheese, and a wide range of hand-made products can be found on this market. The fruits, especially the grapes, are heavenly if you happen to be there in the right season.
St. Mark’s Church
It’s a very colorful church that has become the symbol of Zagreb and is one of the historical places and oldest buildings of the city. Its construction started in the 13th century and took its last form during the 14th century. It was renovated by Hermann Bolle, who also has his signature on other important buildings in the city, and Austrian architect Friedrich Schmidt in the 19th century. Its colorful tiled roof has the medieval coat of arms of Croatia and the old Dalmatia Kingdom. This church is a must-see and the symbol of the city.
Croatian National Theater
The Fellner & Helmer Architecture Studio has designed this building just like they designed more than 200 buildings, most of which are theater buildings, throughout Europe. Strolling around the Zagreb streets, the National Theater building, which still hosts remarkable plays and shows, will surely catch your eye with its architectural features.
Trakošcan Castle
It’s one of the most visited castles in Croatia. Built-in the 13th century and surrounded by a beautiful forest, the castle has hosted some of the prominent families of Croatia through the years. After renovation, the castle was opened to visitors with the belongings and artworks of the Draskovic’s, the last family to have resided there.
Lotrscak Tower
It was built to protect the southern gate of the Gradec city in the 13th century. The tower, due to the bell hung in it to signal the closing of the town gates, has been called “campanalatrunculorum” in Latin which means “the thieves bell”, since 1646. Every day at noon a cannon is fired from the tower. There are a lot of urban legends about this. One of them refers to the times during the Ottoman siege in the city. According to the urban legend, the cannon fired from the tower dropped into a caldron containing the commander’s lunch which was being carried by the cook. Hearing and seeing this the Turks decided to abandon the siege and retreat. Except for Mondays, you can climb up to the tower and enjoy the magnificent Zagreb view from there.
Tkalciceva Street
This is where most of the cafes, pubs and bars are gathered, and especially after 17:00 it’s jam-packed. Find a nice place where you’ll have a good time and take your fill, after a while, you won’t be able to help but get carried away with the joy of the street.
Zagreb is always a delightful city for me, but if it’s possible to arrange the timing of your Zagreb visit, it will be better to choose dates between June and September, which is the hotter season of Zagreb. Though it’s a city that should be discovered on foot, the railways and public transportation function very well.
