As the capital city of civilizations throughout history, Istanbul gives its inhabitants many gifts. The city’s advantageous geographical location is among these. However, Istanbul is built on a massive fault line and therefore vulnerable to earthquakes. To evade the deadly outcome of earthquakes, people built wooden structures, yet this time old Istanbul suffered from city-wide fires. And then there’s the water issue. Though surrounded by sea on three sides, this ancient city has experienced clean water shortages throughout its long history.
During the Roman Era, aqueducts were constructed to address the city’s water needs. The aqueduct system extended from the clean water sources north of Istanbul into the city center, and the water was stored in cisterns. One of the most well-known aqueducts from this period is the Bozdogan (Valens), along the road from Unkapani to Aksaray.
During the rule of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, repairs to some of the Byzantine era aqueducts were made. When water shortages occurred during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent, a number of Roman aqueducts – previously destroyed – were also repaired under the supervision of Mimar Sinan. As well, the construction of new aqueducts took place.
Some of these structures are still in use today, and offer a great sightseeing opportunity for history and architecture buffs.
A genius of Istanbul: Mimar Sinan
Born in central Anatolia, Mimar Sinan came from Ağırnas village, near Kayseri. He is known as the architect of the Suleymaniye Mosque, but his projects include nearly four hundred structures, including madrassahs, aqueducts, shrines, bridges, caravansarays, hammams and more.
Mimar Sinan described himself as having “once wandered around the Arab and Acem (Persian) countries in the sultan’s service, increasing his knowledge by examining the top of every palace dome and every ruined corner”. He was a janissary for seventeen years and observed a variety of architectural styles during his service. He won the admiration of Suleiman the Magnificent and became the chief architect when he built a bridge across the Prut River, for the army to cross. Mimar Sinan’s works span a wide geography from Damascus to Sofia, from Mecca to Budin. In Istanbul, he oversaw the building of Istanbul’s sewers, water systems, sidewalks and shrines; the construction of Istanbul during Mimar Sinan’s half-century as chief architect demonstrates his great influence. He died at the age of 98. Somewhat ironically, considering that he helped solve Istanbul’s water problems, Mimar Sinan did not have a fountain in his home.
Mimar Sinan and the Mağlova Aqueduct
Also known as the Muallak Aqueduct, the Mağlova Aqueduct, is an ideal aqueduct to visit and is also considered one of Mimar Sinan’s masterworks. At 257 meters long and 36 meters high, the aqueduct continues to carry clean water to Istanbul today. The origin story of the aqueduct is that Suleiman the Magnificent observed water flowing on marble stones while hunting in Kemerburgaz and summoned Mimar Sinan, ordering the area to be explored, waterways identified and aqueducts built. This was the beginning of the Kırkçeşme (Forty Fountains) water system, which brings the clean water of the Belgrade Forest to Sarayburnu. The construction of the Mağlova Aqueduct, located on the main line of the Kırkçeşme water system, began in 1554 and was completed in 1562.
In 1563, Mimar Sinan had to reconstruct the aqueduct, which was completely destroyed in a freak hurricane. The new system was designed to withstand earthquakes as well as severe rainfall or flooding, with drainage outlets at the bottom levels and wind outlets at the top level. The weight of the structure was also distributed in a more balanced manner by expanding the support at the bottom level; it has been said that the mechanics involved in this construction – utilized for the first time in an aqueduct – are enough to make Mimar Sinan one of the greatest architects in history.
There are 33 aqueducts in the 55-kilometer Kirkçeşme system, each touched by Mimar Sinan.
Where and how to get to the Mağlova Aqueduct
The Mağlova Aqueduct was built atop the Alibey River and today lies within the borders of Sultangazi. Until October 2019, the Mağlova Aqueduct could be reached only via a 15-minute walk from the village of Cebeci in Sultangazi. While the Aqueduct was always known to historians and locals, it was not a popular attraction among the general public. However, it is now possible to drive to the Mağlova Aqueduct, thanks to the opening of Kemerburgaz City Forest. This Mimar Sinan masterpiece is expected to draw great attention in the coming months.
To get to the Mağlova Aqueduct , enter Kemerburgaz City Forest (there’s a fee) and follow the signs. From the first parking lot in the Forest, it is about a 45-minute walk to the Aqueduct. If you prefer to drive, you can reach the Aqueduct site more quickly. There, a short, downhill path leads to the Aqueduct itself, and you can see the full splendor of the structure up close.
For a better viewing of this magnificent work by Mimar Sinan, we recommend visiting during weekdays: it gets quite crowded during the weekends. Daylight hours are better, as the lighting near the Aqueduct is somewhat weak.
While you are here:
Kemerburgaz City Forest is the largest public forest in Istanbul and offers opportunities for hiking, cycling and picnics. It’s a terrific place to enjoy outdoor, socially distanced activities. There are also children’s areas. The Watch Tower, on the right on the road to the Mağlova Aqueduct, features a wonderful view of the Forest.
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