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    Sarajevo: The exhausted city

    The capital city of Bosnia Herzegovina, Sarajevo has witnessed many important events throughout history, and it is also the small city where Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie Chotek were assassinated; the event that led to the outbreak of the First World War. Through the years, this land has been captured by different states and hosted Muslims, Christians and Jews, therefore it became known as the Jerusalem of Europe. When you are in Sarajevo, the structures with traces of a multi-cultured and multi-faith history will meet your eyes. You can also easily see the effects of the wars it has been through, especially in terms of economy and urbanization.

    Umut Aydoğan (Station Supervisor)
    Umut Aydoğan (Station Supervisor)
    I am Umut Aydoğan. I was born in Istanbul in 1975. Traveling and exploring new geographies became my lifestyle after I met Turkish Airlines. I have become a traveler ready to hit the road at the slightest opportunity to show the world to other people through the eyes of a photographer. I am a gastronomy lover and a person interested in local cultures.

    Bascarsija (main market place)

    The market, which was built in the 15th century, is like the cultural center of the city. Besides lots of gift shops, restaurants and cafes, a few of the most important buildings like Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque and Clock Tower are also located there. Though it was targeted intensely by the Serbian forces especially in 1992, it survived unharmed. Just a little reminder, as a result of the big fire in the 19th century, Bascarsija diminished to the half-size that it once was, but it continued its services. After a small tour in Bascarsija, without going any further we visited Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque and the Clock Tower.


    Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque

    One of the most appealing structures of Ottoman architecture, the mosque was built in 1531 by the sanjak-beg Gazi Husrev who was commissioned by Sultan Suleiman. It’s still one of the most important mosques in the city. What makes it so unique is the 26 meter high magnificent dome and the details in its ornamentation. Born to a Bosniak father and a Turkish mother Gazi Husrev was buried in a tomb in the courtyard of his mosque.


    The Clock Tower

    During the Ottoman rule in Bosnia Herzegovina, 21 clock towers were built. The highest of them all is the one in Bascarsija. Its unique feature separating it from the counterparts is has the only clock in a public area that shows the prayer times according to the lunar day.


    Gazi Husrev Beg Bezisten

    “Bezisten” is an Arabic word meaning the place where linens are sold. Gazi Husrev Beg Bezisten was built in the 16th century and it became a market place when other stores were also opened there. It still exists and continues to be a hub today with around 65-70 shops.

    Our last stop at Bascarsija was the Sebilj.


    Sebilj (the fountain)

    The fountain was built in 1753 and donated to the city. Damaged by fire and various other events over the years, the Sebilj has since been restored. Today’s structural appearance was acquired after the 1891 renovation, and with some more maintenance, it has been recovered fully.

    Leaving the main market place behind, we followed the Miljacka River and reached the Latin Bridge.


    Latin Bridge

    This is the spot where the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne Franz Ferdinand and his wife were assassinated, the event that caused the beginning of the First World War. Having three strong pillars and four arches, the historical Ottoman Bridge has lots of architectural resemblances with other bridges in Sarajevo.


    Sarajevo Museum

    Located just beside the Latin Bridge, the main theme of the Sarajevo Museum is the assassination of Franz Ferdinand in 1914. Due to its presentation of historical facts, important evidence and images, it’s a must-see.


    Sacred Heart Cathedral

    This is the biggest cathedral in Bosnia Herzegovina. Designed in the neo-Gothic style, it was completed in 1889. It’s a very important religious site for the Christian population of the city. The glasswork and the statues in it are really worth seeing.


    The Emperor’s Mosque

    It was built by Isa Beg as a present to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It was the first mosque built in Sarajevo after the Ottoman Empire conquered Bosnia Herzegovina. There is also a historical Ottoman Graveyard in its courtyard. The original mosque was initially made of wood, but it was restored in 1565 taking its present form. Over the years the side rooms were added and the mosque was extended. Evliya Celebi wrote a special part about this mosque in his travelogue, Seyahatname, emphasizing a very interesting detail; hot spring water run from the ablution taps.


    Academy of Fine Arts

    This magnificent building, located by the river, was built as a church in 1949, and in due course turned into the Academy of Fine Arts. There are classes and exhibition rooms.


    Bosnia Herzegovina Museum

    This pseudo-Moorish style building was established in 1890 and during its first years, it was used as a city hall. It continued as a city hall until 1945 when it started being used as a public library. After the fire, it was under renovation and restoration for many years, and it was reopened in 2014.

    On 25 August 1992 shelling, undertaken by extreme Serb nationalists, caused a fire that continued for 3 days. Reference books define this tragic event as “the lost memory of Bosnia Herzegovina. “Some citizens and librarians tried to save rare books and manuscripts by making a human chain, but because of the sniper fire, they were unable to save most of them. Before the fire, there were more than 6 million books and achieves but during the fire, 2 million of these were burned to ashes.


    Eternal Flame

    This is a memorial to the military and civilian victims of World War II. It was set alight on the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo from occupation in 1946, and the flames were never put out. At the back of the memorial there is an inscription:

    “With the Courage and the Jointly SpilledBlood of the Fighters of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian, Croatian, Montenegrin, and Serbian Brigades of the Glorious Yugoslav National Army; with the Joint Efforts and Sacrifices of Sarajevan Patriots Serbs, Muslims and Croats on the 6th of April 1945 Sarajevo, the Capital City of the People’s Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina was liberated. Eternal Glory and Gratitude to the Fallen Heroes of the liberation of Sarajevo and our Homeland, On the First Anniversary of its Liberation– a Grateful Sarajevo “


    Synagogue

    Built-in 1581, and today is used as a Museum of the Bosnian Jews, one level of the synagogue is still used for religious services. On the museum floor, a big book that is suspended from the ceiling will attract your attention right away. The book contains the names and the photos of the 12000 Bosnian Jews that were killed during the war.


    The Tunnel of Hope

    The tunnel was dug by the military and civilians to transport provisions and ammunition and to take people to the safe zone during the siege by the Serbian Army in 1993. The tunnel is 800 meters long, 1 meter wide and 1.5 meters high. The tunnel which became a symbol of survival during the siege is also called the Life Tunnel. After it was turned into a museum, 20 meters of it was left open and 780 meters of the tunnel was demolished and sealed for security reasons.

    The places to see in the city are not limited to the ones above. Sarajevo is a small city that lets you discover lots of things that may interest you as you’re strolling around…

    After so much sadness and pain, let’s talk about what to eat and what to drink in Sarajevo.


    Cevapi

    This is a delicious meatball served inside of a round, flatbread! Onion and yogurt are the side dishes. In most of the Balkan countries, you can come across cevapi, but Sarajevo’s is unforgettable!


    Begova Corba

    This is a traditional Bosniak soup with chicken, okra and different kinds of vegetables.


    Burek

    This pastry has a special place in Bosniak culture. Spinach burek (pastry) just out of the oven with “ayran” (a traditional yogurt drink) will leave a very good taste in your mouth.


    Pita

    This dish is made of dough and filled with potato, spinach, cheese and ground meat.


    Bosnian Coffee

    The presentation and the taste of it resemble Turkish coffee, but when you taste it, you’ll see the difference, and love it!

    The recent Serbian siege and what the Muslim population has been through in Sarajevo are still fresh wounds that can bundle you up with an intense sadness touring the city. In this century the memories of the events are still relatively fresh, and to stroll the streets will add a special meaning to your visit.

    The winters are cold and the summers are very hot in Sarajevo, so the ideal seasons to visit are spring or autumn. Two days is enough to see the whole city, but my advice to you would be to take a little extra time when you’re in Sarajevo and not miss the opportunity to see Mostar which is only 2 hours away by bus.

    *The date of this blog post may have been updated due to additional content. Please be aware that information on fees and transportation is subject to change. The content of this post reflects the author's opinion and views.

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