On the way we became more and more hungry and when we dropped in Atocha Train Station to hand in the car, we saw it as a chance to grab a bite and I advise the same thing to you. Probably all of you will remember the spot from the bombing attack in 2010. The indoor garden with the palm trees is fascinating.
After lunch, we settled in our hotel which was not very far from the station. We started exploring the city from the heart of the transportation network and one of the most crowded squares of the city, Puerto Del Sol, the Gate of the Sun. The name originated from one of the gates in the walls surrounding the city. The square houses the crescent shaped Palacio Real (Plaza Mayor), one of the symbols of the city El Oso y el Madroño (The Bear and the Strawberry Tree statue) and the symbolic center of the Spain Kilómetro Cero (0 Kilometers).
If you leave the square through the Calle de Preciados, you can see the shops of many word famous brands. Then, you can pass from Plaza del Callo to the Gran Via. Housing buildings in different architectural styles, this main street was constructed after the demolishing of 14 streets and a neighborhood.
We went to the east, passing through shopping streets with a variety of stores and reached the Calle de Santa Barbara. First, we found the store called Deli Room. Clothes, purses and shoes designed by young Spanish designers are sold in this store, but unfortunately it was closed by the time we reached it. The little square in this neighborhood is very busy in the evenings when the weather is nice. If you find room in the cafe Con a Che near the square, don’t miss the chance. The drinks and the crowd are cool, and the prices are reasonable.
We left the square through Corredera Alta de San Pablo and to our surprise we were surrounded by interesting stores. The vintage and second hand stores and the profile of the people on the street reminded us of the Galata and Tünel region in Istanbul.
After strolling around, we reached Plaza del Dos de Mayo. Packed with youths during the nights the Plaza of May 2nd has lots of options for dining and there are lots of people chatting and having their drinks on street benches. We had to wait in line for some time to enter the pizza place Sandos Pizzeria at the edge of the square but the pizzas were delicious.
On the morning of our second day, our first stop was Plaza Mayor. Though its origin goes back to the 1590’s, the plaza took its current form at the beginning of 18th century. In the past the royal family watched ceremonies from the balconies of the palaces surrounding the square, and in the middle of the square stands the statue of the Philip the 3rd. The exits to the streets from the arches on all four sides are worth taking a photo of.
If you follow the west exit, you’ll arrive at Plaza de San Miguel. This square doesn’t have anything special and our aim in going there was to drop by the Mercado de San Miguel which is at the far end of the square. You should absolutely visit this market to see the metal architecture, and the food and drinks in the gourmet stores. When you try the cheeses, dried nuts and fruits, beef jerky, wines and lots of other products, you won’t be able to help yourselves but eat them all up. My advice to you would be to go there full and keep your visiting hours before or after the Spanish lunch time.
When you leave there use the Calle Mayor, and you’ll come across the Almudena Cathedral. If you have time, take a look inside the cathedral. The murals on the walls are very much alive. The Palacio Real, on the north of the cathedral is the main reason why we were there. However, after seeing the 200 meter long line which wasn’t moving an inch, we changed our minds, and settled for watching the parade of the royal guards.
Because of this little problem with our plan, through Plaza de Orient, we changed our route to the Puerta del Sol. We decided at least to buy tickets for that night’s bull fight. When you enter the square from the Calle de Preciados, the ticket booth is on the right. The prices change depending on the proximity of the seats to the field.
After buying tickets, we realized that we wouldn’t have enough time to do anything else, so we decided to rest a little bit till the bull fight. On our way back to the hotel, we passed through the Plaza de Santa Ana. This square is surrounded with cafes. With its white façade the Vitoria Hotel looks so beautiful. I strongly recommend the Cafe Central, which is in Plaza del Angel adjacent to Santa Ana. In the cafe at night there are all kinds of jazz concerts.
For the bull fights which were due to start at 19:00, we went to Ventas by subway. Leaving the subway station, Plaza de Toros de las Ventas, was in front of us. The area was packed with peddlers selling accessories, dried nuts and fruits. Though at first the arena was not very full, 5 minutes before the bullfight was due to start it was jammed. You could see all kinds of people on the benches. Especially the boy dressed in suit like a prince and the girl with a gown resembling a princess were very interesting. Despite their chic outfits, when the fight started, the princess took out sandwiches and sunflower seeds.
When the fight started, seeing how the bull suffered and was tormented, we couldn’t have much fun. And since we were the fans of the bull, the only time we cheered, was when the rookie bullfighter tripped and got his ass kicked. But the Spanish people were really having a blast. When the bullfighter stabbed it for the last time, the whole arena was standing, but the bullfighter who couldn’t succeed in his last attack and tormented the bull was protested with white handkerchiefs.
The bullfights continued till 21:00. My recommendation would be, if you are an animal lover, don’t ever even consider going to a bullfight. Though the Spanish argue that these animals are treated and cared very well during their life, it’s a fact that a lot of people see the killing of bulls just for fun as pure violence and cruelty against animals. Nevertheless, it’s worth seeing just for the ambiance, and observing the enthusiasm of the audience and the rituals. The bullfights are between March and October.
Leaving the arena we went to the Plaza San Andres. There were youths gathered on the small square beside where a church ornamented with lights is situated. Following their lead, we bought something to drink from the peddlers and hung out a little. To be honest it wasn’t a very decent neighborhood. Anyway, the drinks took all our fatigue away. Not to totally run out of steam we called it a day.
If you come to this area daytime, check out the flea market called El Rastro We had the chance to check it out on our second visit to the spot. It is 500 years old and only takes place on Sundays and official holidays between 9.00 and 15.00. On the stands there are all kinds of products. Be careful, it’s also notorious for pickpocketing because of the large crowds. The statue on the upper part belongs to a war hero named Eloy Gonzalo. Despite the chivalry of this guy, Spain lost the war with Cuba between 1895 and 1898, and Cuba declared its independence. There are also antique shops in this area. I strongly recommend the market place with antique shops which is in the courtyard on the left going down from the upper part of the flea market.
We started with Thyssen Museum on the last day of our Spain adventure. Located on Paseo del Prado, the museum houses one of the most beautiful special collections in the world. Western art history is exhibited, from early artworks created in the 1300’s to today’s pop art movements. You should allocate around three hours for Thyssen Museum. If you also plan to visit Prado and Reina Sofia it’s possible to buy a combined ticket.
Leaving the museum, we passed through the square with the pool, Plaza de Cibeles, where a statue of Cybele is situated. Walking down the Paseo de Recoletos, at number 21 you’ll find the Cafe Gijon. It’s the favored hang out of artists, performers and intellectuals. We were intimidated by the prices and chose to give it a miss.
We left the street through the Calle de Prim and continued our way to the Calle Augusto Figueroa. The restaurant named La Bardemcilla on this street at number 47 belongs to the Bardem family from the movie industry. If you’re lucky enough, in the cozy ambiance besides family photos and posters on the walls, you might come across Javier Bardem. The kitchen is open between 13.30-16.00 during the day and in the evenings till 20:00. Due to this, we had to leave without eating anything.
If you turn right from this street to Calle de Libertad, just a little ahead you’ll see another place called Duirno. After struggling with waiters who didn’t speak English and the menus, we really liked this place due to its affordable prices, and bought a lot of stuff after seeing them; the café also sells videos and books. In fact our aim was to go to Bazaar Cafe on this street, but when we arrived there, the kitchen was already closed. We had heard high praise for their cocktails with exotic fruits, and Tuna fish with Mediterranean seasoning sauce.
There are a lot of restaurants in this neighborhood. The chances are good that you’ll find one for your taste. After Duirno we went to the Con a Che, the spot we visited on our first day, where we finished off our last day in Madrid chatting.
In general we were very satisfied with our holiday in Spain. Comparing the three cities we visited, Madrid is the one we liked the most. Compared to Barcelona, there were less tourists and we found it very cozy with all its similarities to Istanbul, most of all it was relatively more economic. I guess those were our reasons for liking it more.
Recommendations and Impressions
- It’s a safe city, transportation is very easy thanks to the subway. The only disadvantage is that the services end early. You have to take a cab at night.
- Spanish people know very well how to get the best of life, and it’s somehow contagious. Eating out is very common. The streets, cafes and restaurants are always full of people.
- In the spots close to the touristic attractions, the food and drink prices are higher.
- It’s very hard to find a breakfast menu fitting our breakfast habits. You can only find sandwiches.
- Making plans, keep in mind that the traditional restaurants in Spain are closed on Mondays and they are packed between 14.00 and 22.00.
- Generally the menus are not in English, and the waiters at traditional restaurants don’t speak English either. I recommend you learn a few words in Spanish to make it easier when you order something. “Pavo” = Türkiye, “Pollo” = Chicken, “Ternera” = Calf, “No Como Cerdo” = “I don’t eat pork”, or “Sin Cerdo” = “Pork free”.
If you have time, I also advise you to see these places.
- Casa de Campo: At this park, which is located in the western part of city, there is a panoramic view and an entertainment park.
- Basilica de San Francisco el Grande: The basilica, constructed on foundations from the 13th century, is very appealing with its huge dome and the works of Goya, Ribera and Valezquez.
- Museo de America: A museum dedicated to antique Latin American cultures.
- Museo del Prado: One of the most prestigious museums of the world.
- Centro de Arte Reina Sofia: A museum where contemporary art pieces are exhibited.
Things to do list:
- Chocolate con churros: Try these delicious doughs dipped in hot chocolate.
- If you find flamenco interesting, join a flamenco night.
