A journey through time: The ancient origins of lakerda
Understanding the history of lakerda is inseparable from understanding Istanbul’s and the Black Sea’s commercial and strategic importance in the ancient world. It begins with the Greek city-states establishing colonies along the Black Sea coast. Seeking solutions to food shortages on the mainland, these settlers encountered the sea’s extraordinary abundance of fish and rich salt deposits. These two precious resources enabled the preservation of fish with salt and their transport over long distances. In time, salted fish became one of the region’s most valuable trade goods, carried by ships back to the mainland. This is not merely a story drawn from texts. The massive jars discovered in Sinop, dating to the first millennium BCE and still containing traces of fish and salt, serve as tangible proof of this ancient tradition.
One of the most popular legends about lakerda’s origin claims that the word derives from the Spanish phrase “La Querida,” meaning beloved. Though this romantic tale often circulates on social media, scholars agree it does not align with historical evidence. Lakerda’s origins predate the 15th century, the period in which this story is supposed to take place. The Roman poet Statius, writing in the first century CE, uses the term “Lasertos” in his work Silvae. Its root lies in the Greek word lak, meaning to cut, slice, or carve. This etymology shows that the name refers not to the fish itself but to the way it is prepared, carefully sliced and worked. That precise craftsmanship ultimately distinguishes lakerda from an ordinary salted fish.
The Art of the Perfect Lakerda: The right fish, the right sea, the right time
Creating the perfect lakerda is about far more than simply following a recipe; it requires the perfect alignment of geography, timing, and raw materials. The flavor of lakerda is deeply rooted in the concept of “merroir,” the maritime equivalent of terroir, the concept that a product reflects the specific characteristics of its environment. The transition of the fish from the 2% low-salinity waters of the Black Sea to the denser 4% salinity of the Marmara, coupled with shifts in water temperature and the unique currents of the Bosphorus, creates an unparalleled merroir that shapes the fish’s muscle density and fat composition.
Authentic lakerda is crafted exclusively from the fish “torik” (large bonito), a member of the mackerel family. An ideal bonito weighs between 4 and 7 kilograms. The window of perfection falls between late October and January 1st, when the fish, having spent the summer feeding in the Black Sea, has reached its peak fat content and begun its migration.
Once the raw material is selected with such meticulous care, the rest is left to the craftsman’s mastery, knowledge, and, most importantly, patience.
Distinguishing a superior lakerda from a poor one is the first step in honoring this cultural heritage. Authentic lakerda should not be a vivid red but an elegant powder pink. The slice should be free of bloodstains and instead catch the light with shimmering hints of pink, purple, and yellow. These iridescent plays of light are known as “meneviş” and are among the most vital indicators of quality. In terms of texture, a slice should hold its form like a solid block when plated, without crumbling. As for the flavor profile, the protagonist is not salt but a deep, satisfying richness that spreads across the palate, the elusive fifth taste, umami.
A craft of patience: Key tips for making lakerda at home
Making lakerda is not merely about following steps; it also entails understanding the ingredients, respecting the process, and demonstrating patience. The lakerda-making process gains greater significance when you understand why each step is performed: during the cleaning and preparation stage, the fish’s head, tail, and internal organs are removed. The body, approximately 6-8 cm thick, is cut into blocks. At this stage, the most critical operation is the complete removal of the spinal marrow with a thin wire. Because the marrow does not absorb salt and is the first part of the fish to spoil. The second step is purification. The sliced fish are refrigerated in cold water overnight to allow any remaining contents to be released. This process ensures that the lakerda’s color becomes clear and pink. The third step is salting. The type and texture of the salt used determine the fate of the lakerda. The ideal salt is coarse-grained rock salt. The fourth step is the first salting. The fish slices are thoroughly rubbed with salt. In a container, one layer of salt and one layer of fish are tightly stacked alternately, leaving no air gaps between them. The hygroscopic nature of salt draws water out of the fish cells, allowing salt molecules to slowly penetrate the flesh. This process, which lasts 7 to 12 days, reduces the fish’s water activity and creates an environment in which spoilage microorganisms cannot survive. If desired, a few bay leaves may be placed between the layers to enhance flavor. The fifth step is brining. After the first salting, the fish, which have shrunk somewhat and darkened in color, are transferred to a brine containing 6 to 12 percent salt. This stage revives the fish that has lost its water, restores its texture, and balances its flavor. Although lakerda can be eaten on the fourth day, its flavor peaks on the seventh day. In the final storage stage, lakerda that will not be consumed can be kept in the refrigerator in a neutral, odorless, low-acidity oil such as sunflower oil, not in olive oil, in a sealed container. At the end of this artisanal process, bringing the product to the table is a ritual that requires at least as much care as making it.
The Crown of the Istanbul Table: How to serve lakerda?
The final stop in lakerda’s flavor journey is the table. The right presentation and companions elevate the experience of this ancient heritage. The classic way to serve lakerda is to drizzle a little olive oil over it and serve it with red onion. This pairing is not only a harmony of flavors but also offers aesthetic integrity. When it comes to drink pairings, lakerda, though historically consumed with wine, is now more commonly served as a meze, matched with rakı, to preserve its character. Lakerda’s place at the table gains meaning not only through its flavor but also through the conversation it fosters, the shared memories, and the culture it sustains.
The Heritage Beyond the Bosphorus, Sinop: The right city, the right festival, the right legacy
Although lakerda and the Bosphorus may seem inseparable, another vital stop in the story of this delicacy is Sinop. As one of the cities that has carried the knowledge of salted fish processing throughout history, Sinop keeps this heritage alive today—not just on the plate, but through cultural events. Launched in 2019 and held every November, the Sinop Lakerda Festival was created to make the city’s 3,000-year fishing history visible once again. The festival’s primary aim is to preserve traditional fish-processing techniques and support local producers in this coastal city, which has hosted lakerda-making since antiquity. Led by the Sinop Culture and Tourism Association and supported by the Sinop Municipality and the Development Agency, the festival becomes a feast of flavor and culture through lakerda competitions, traditional workshops, maritime history exhibitions, talks, and concerts. Simultaneously, the event contributes to the brand value of Sinop lakerda, accelerates the geographical indication process, and fosters the growth of gastronomy tourism.
Ultimately, lakerda is a unique flavor where geography, history, and human labor meet—stretching from the ancient trade routes of the Black Sea to Byzantine palaces and onto today’s tables. It is a memory of Istanbul’s fading identity as a “city of fish.” For Sinop, it is a means to revive a millennial heritage. The next time you place lakerda on your table, remember that you are partaking in an ancient tradition.
If you’re wondering which fish to eat and when in Türkiye, read our article: “Türkiye’s fish season calendar: Which fish to eat in each month?”
