The leading flavors of Ankara cuisine: Meat dishes and the Aspava culture
When you set foot in Ankara, the first flavor you should try is undoubtedly “Ankara tava.” Prepared with lamb, orzo, and regional spices, this dish is slowly cooked for hours over low heat in copper pans, developing a rich, distinctive aroma. You can find some of its most delicious and satisfying versions in the traditional tradesmen’s restaurants around Ulus. Another emblem of the capital’s cuisine is “Ankara döner,” made from thinly sliced meat and popular throughout the city. Yet when it comes to döner, Ankara has its own iconic phenomenon: Aspava. The name derives from the phrase “Allah Sağlık Para Afiyet Versin Amin” (“May God grant health, wealth, and appetite, amen.”) When you visit an Aspava restaurant and order a döner wrap with sauce, your table is quickly filled with unlimited salad, French fries, çiğ köfte (raw meatballs), cacık (yogurt with cucumber and garlic), and semolina halva with ice cream. This generous tradition of complimentary side dishes is a dining ritual you should experience at least once in Ankara.
The harmony of contrasts: From street food to fine dining at Atakule
When you begin exploring Ankara’s street food culture, you are first greeted by those familiar, comforting aromas. In the early morning, the famous Ankara simit, fresh from the oven and coated in roasted sesame without molasses, offers a crisp, natural start to the day. As you wander through the city, grabbing a warm döner wrap from a modest street-side shop reminds you just how flavorful and authentic this street culture truly is. Yet the capital’s dining scene extends far beyond lively street bites and traditional tradesmen’s restaurants. As evening approaches and you head toward one of the city’s landmarks, Atakule and its surroundings, these unpretentious settings give way to a modern, refined fine dining culture. While taking in a panoramic view of the capital, you can enjoy carefully crafted dishes from world cuisines, prepared with precision and creativity.
Eating fresh fish in a landlocked city
Ankara may not bring the sea to mind, yet the city is home to some of the country’s finest seafood restaurants. To challenge the familiar question, “Can you really eat good fish in a city without a sea?” you need only look more closely at the capital’s well-rooted fish culture. The freshest catches from the Black Sea, the Marmara, and the Aegean are delivered daily to the capital via a fast, efficient logistics network. Among locals, there is even a confident claim: “The freshest fish is eaten in Ankara.” This means that in the heart of the steppe, you can enjoy a surprisingly fresh seafood feast. If you find yourself on Sakarya Street in Kızılay, the scent of frying fish drifting from the row of side-by-side eateries welcomes you to a warm, unpretentious atmosphere; here you can sit on simple stools and savor a plate of freshly fried anchovies. If you are looking for a more elegant and tranquil dinner, the established seafood restaurants around Gaziosmanpaşa and Filistin Street are the place to go. With their variety of mezes, seasonal fish, and attentive service, these venues bring a refreshing sea breeze to Ankara’s diverse dining scene.
A historic pause: The flavors of Beypazarı
When you move a little beyond the city center and turn your gastronomic route toward the district of Beypazarı, the traditional flavors of Anatolia welcome you. Slow-cooked for hours in earthenware pots inside stone ovens, Beypazarı casserole becomes a true feast, with tender meat and a subtle smoky aroma that settles into the dish. After your meal, as you stroll through the district’s streets, you can taste the walnut-filled Beypazarı baklava made with 80 delicate layers of pastry, as well as the region’s signature carrot lokum. On your way back, the best gift to bring to your loved ones is the famous Beypazarı kurusu (a traditional, hard-baked savory biscuit), a tea-time staple known for staying fresh for months without going stale.
A district-by-district food guide to Ankara
When choosing where to eat in Ankara, the character of the neighborhood you’re in naturally guides you. If you want to feel the city’s historical texture and taste traditional Turkish dishes, the long-established tradesmen’s restaurants in Ulus are an ideal choice. For Ankara tava, tas kebabı, and classic stews, you can head straight there. If you are planning a central, lively dinner, Tunalı Hilmi Street and the Çankaya district offer a wide range of options. From quality kebab houses to third-wave coffee spots, you can find many alternatives in these stylish areas. As Ankara is a student city, that energy is easy to feel in its dining scene. Around Bahçelievler 7th Street and the Emek area, you can discover budget-friendly yet delicious home-style restaurants, popular sandwich shops, and quick-bite spots.
Late night lifesaver flavors
When you head out at night in Ankara, finding something to eat is rarely a concern. Especially around Kızılay, Esat, and Bahçelievler, there are always places serving freshly simmered soup. Late at night, options include garlicky tripe soup, kelle paça (traditional Turkish soup with meat) or strained lentil soup. For those who prefer something other than soup, charcoal-grilled kokoreç (roasted lamb intestines), stuffed mussels, and late-night döner spots rank among the capital’s most popular after-dark flavors.
A delightful start to the day: Weekend breakfast
If you would like to begin your day on a fresh note, Ankara’s rich breakfast culture will more than satisfy you. Especially on weekends, the spacious venues in Çukurambar, İncek, and Ümitköy become favorite meeting spots for locals. At tables set with warm village flatbread, tandır bread, regional cheeses, menemen served in copper pans, and homemade jams, you can enjoy a long, leisurely morning. After breakfast, you can stop by the neighborhood markets in Nallıhan or Beypazarı to purchase natural products, homemade noodles, and varieties of tarhana.
The capital’s cuisine is too colorful, sincere, and flavorful to fit into a single guide. To taste all these distinctive dishes while they are still steaming, you can start planning your trip by booking a flight to Ankara now.
Once you arrive, if you’re wondering how to travel most efficiently between famous tradesmen’s restaurants, popular streets, and historic neighborhoods, be sure to take a look at our Urban Transportation: Ankara guide. And after celebrating with a plate of delicious Ankara tava, if you ask, “We’ve eaten well. Now where should we explore?” our article titled The capital of inner peace: Places to visit in Ankara is ready to inspire your next stop. We wish you a pleasant journey and bon appétit in advance.
