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    Spirit of the city: Frankfurt


    What to see

    Römerberg

    Römerberg is such an important part of Frankfurt, you might want to begin your exploration of the city here. It’s the historic heart of the city, and its square has been the seat of Frankfurt’s administration since the Middle Ages. Since the 12th century, travelers from all over have visited the trade fairs held in the square, which is now home to some of the city’s most important buildings. In the eastern corner of the square you’ll find an area known as Ostzeile, where 15th and 16th century houses had been restored during the 18th century. Sadly, the entire square was destroyed in bombing in 1944. However, between 1981 and 1983 those houses were again rebuilt, and are now the most beautiful in the square. In the middle of the square stands the Fountain of Justice, with a sculpture of the goddess of justice carrying her sword and scales. Other important buildings surrounding the square include the Historisches Museum, which documents the history of the city, and the 17th century Gothic Old St. Nicholas Church. Keep your eye on the time as you explore, because the 35 bells of the church ring out at 9:05, 12:05 and 17:05 each day.

    Liebieghaus Museum

    The Liebieghaus Museum was built in 1896 on the bank of the Main River, and is striking from the very first glance. The museum today is named after its first owner, Heinrich von Liebieg, and has become an integral part of Frankfurt’s cultural and arts scene, hosting a variety of permanent and temporary exhibitions. Along with its Ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian pieces, it also boasts works from the Medieval, Baroque, Renaissance and Classicism eras, and even pieces from the Far East. Among its most well-known pieces are the famous Ancient Greek sculptor Myron’s Athena, its Roman-era copy, and Roman portraits from the Egyptian city of Fayyum. A little while spent in the garden is a wonderful way to round off a visit to the museum, as it has its own collection of sculptures, as well as trees brought from all over the world.

    Museum for Communication

    The Museum for Communication (Museum für Kommunikation) was established in 1958, and at that time was known as the National Postal Museum – restoration, and a new name came in 1990. The building’s clean, modern appearance came courtesy of the renowned German architect Günter Behnisch. The museum is situated beneath the main exhibition hall, and it displays communications equipment from across the centuries so you can watch the evolution of technology take place before your very eyes. You’ll find telegraph machines, telephones, radios, televisions and computers from across the decades, and the even centuries here at the Museum for Communication.

    German Architecture Museum

    The German Architecture Museum (Deutsches Architekturmuseum) is another of Frankfurt’s important cultural venues, with exhibitions documenting architecture, its history and urban planning, while it also holds conferences, symposiums and congresses to debate and answer the challenges faced by modern architects and designers. While you’ll find designs and drawings from the 18th and 19th centuries, the museum’s primary focus is the architecture of the 20th century. In this expansive collection you’ll find designs by greats such as Giambattista Piranesi, Gottfried Semper, Louis I. Kahn, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Hans Scharoun, Hans Poelzig, Ernst May, Aldo Rossi, Rem Koolhaas, Frank O. Gehry and Norman Foster.

    German Film Museum

    If you’ve an interest in film and cinema, the German Film Museum (Deutsches Filmmuseum) is an absolute must-see. Opened in 1971, the museum’s permanent exhibitions display props and equipment, as well as documentaries on the film-making process. With thematic sections including cinematography, genre and films throughout history, you can really indulge your inner director! Many conferences and festivals are held here throughout the year, and the museum also boast a rather large archive – 80,000 pieces of film, prints and documents – surely enough to satisfy even the most discerning of film buffs.

    Goethe House

    The prolific German writer Johann Wolfgang Goethe was born in Frankfurt in 1749, and the house in which he and his sister Cornelia grew up now serves as a museum celebrating his work. Anyone with an interest in literature is sure to enjoy Goethe House (Goethehaus), for its fantastic architecture as much as its exhibits. It was in this house that he began writing Faust, and where he finished The Sorrows of Young Werther. Sadly the original building was destroyed during the Second World War, but was later rebuilt with an impressive attention to detail. With the personal belongings of Goethe on display and all the details of the era captured perfectly, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time as you walk through the museum, and you’ll get a sense of the atmosphere in which this timeless artist like to create his work. Don’t forget to spend some time in the museum’s garden, which will provide some respite from the busy streets out front.

    Historical Museum

    The Historical Museum (Historisches Museum) was established in 1878, and meticulously documents the art, culture and history of Frankfurt and Germany. The Medieval and Late-Medieval sections of the museum are among its most fascinating, as is the 18th and 19th century section, focusing of Frankfurt between 1866 and 2001. The collections of photographs, paintings, coins, furniture, musical instruments, toys, glass statues, metal and ceramic works all provide a glimpse back through time, and the models depicting the different eras in the city really help bring the history to life.

    Museum of Applied Arts

    The museum’s original building, Villa Metzler, was originally built as a summer house in 1804, but a new representation of the building is now the Museum of Applied Arts (Museum für Angewandte Kunst), and displays works from the 12th to the 21st centuries, from a whole range of cultures. The collection includes crafts, design, books, art and graphic design from Europe, the Far East and everywhere in between. The new building was built in 1984 to meet the growing collection’s demand for space, and the architect, Richard Meier, drew heavy influence from the original building. The Museum of Applied Arts is located in Metzlerpark, were you’ll also find the World Cultural Museum (Museum der Weltkulturen).

    Museum of Modern Art

    The Museum of Modern Art (Museum für Moderne Kunst) opened in 1991, and has since become one of the city’s most important cultural, artistic and social venues. The design of the building makes no secret of the fact there’s a modern art gallery housed inside, itself being a striking piece of modern architecture. Created by Viennese architect Hans Hollering, the buildings lines trace a triangular prism shape, and has been affectionately become known as the “piece of cake” by local residents. The museum’s collection spans from the 1960s to the present day and houses more than 5,000 pieces. At the museum’s heart is a series of 65 minimalist and pop-art pieces left by the collector Karl Ströher. Among the many famous German and international artists, you’ll find the works of Roy Lichtenstein, Joseph Beuys, Andy Warhol and Gerhardt Richter here at Frankfurt’s Museum of Modern Art.

    Museum Giersch

    Museum Giersch (Haus Giersch) is a gallery set in an amazing 1910 Neoclassical villa. The museum opened in 2000, and reflects the cultural identity of the Ren-Main area of the country, with the works of local artists on display. The museum’s regular exhibitions are perfectly complemented by the superb architecture of the building, and you’ll find sketches, paintings, photographs, sculptures and graphic designs on show. It really is the best place to see some of Frankfurt’s best home-grown art.


    What to eat

    Spätzle

    If you want to sample some traditional cuisine while you’re in Frankfurt, spätzle, the German take on pasta could be just what you’re looking for. A cross between noodles and spaghetti into something resembling dumplings, spätzle is found in German, Swiss, Austrian and Hungarian cooking. A dough made using eggs, flour and water is used to make spätzle, and is cooked in boiling water, as you’d expect. Many of the restaurants in Frankfurt create their own sauces to accompany spätzle, which means there is a whole lot to choose from. Käsespätzle, a mixture of cheese and onion, is one of the most popular varieties, so it might be a good idea to start with that.

    Frankfurter Kranz

    Frankfurter Kranz is regarded as Frankfurt’s traditional cake. A firm sponge ring is sliced across to make three layers, which are then filled with a rich mixture of buttercream and fruit jam. It’s then topped with even more buttercream and caramelized hazelnut or almond pieces. It’s an indulgent treat and the perfect thing to order if you’re sitting in a café taking a break from the day’s sightseeing.