The Heart of Dersaadet (The Gate of Happiness): A Memorable Day in Taksim

Taksim Square

Taksim Square and Taksim Republic Monument

Our tour of Taksim’s attractions begins at Taksim Square, the heart of the neighborhood.

First, some historical background: The word “taksim” means “division” in Arabic and Ottoman Turkish; the square is named for the Ottoman-era stone reservoir in the area, which was Istanbul’s main reservoir, and where water lines from the north of the city were collected, divided and branched off to other areas.

Now considered one of İstanbul’s most popular tourist destinations, Taksim Square is centered around the Taksim Republic Monument, designed by Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica and unveiled on August 8, 1928, in a ceremony attended by 30,000 people. 

Two iconic buildings: Atatürk Cultural Center and Taksim Mosque

Our first stop in Taksim is the Taksim Mosque, which opened in 2021 and features numerous engineering innovations. Set in the triangle-shaped conjunction of Taksim Square, İstiklal Street, and Tarlabaşı Boulevard, the Taksim Mosque has four entrances, including the main one. It is the first and only mosque built using the “top-down” system. Modelled on 19th-century Beyoğlu-style architecture, the mosque includes a spacious worship area, an exhibition hall, a soup kitchen, and a library.

The Atatürk Cultural Center has a long history. The first Atatürk Cultural Center building, located on the eastern side of Taksim Square, was opened on April 12, 1969 as the İstanbul Kültür Sarayı (İstanbul Palace of Culture), to stage performances by the State Opera, State Ballet and State Theaters. On November 27, 1970, a fire broke out during the staging of Arthur Miller’s play The Witch’s Cauldron. The fire caused significant damage to the building, due to the lengthy time it took to bring it under control. Eventually, the building was repaired and reopened in October 1978 as the Atatürk Cultural Center. Serving until the 2000s, the Atatürk Cultural Center building was designated for restoration. On October 29, 2021, the new Atatürk Cultural Center reopened with a grand ceremony. This iteration of the Atatürk Cultural Center includes highly functional cultural units such as a large Opera Hall with 2,040 seats, a Theater Hall with 781 seats, and the AKM Gallery.

Two iconic streets: Sıraselviler and İstiklal

If you stand in front of the Republic Monument in Taksim Square, with the Taksim Mosque at your right, you will see two roads: The street with the tramway identified with Taksim is the famous İstiklal Street; the street on the left is Sıraselviler, which was the heart of Taksim’s nightlife for many years. You can reach Cihangir by walking down Sıraselviler Street. For now, we will head towards İstiklal Street.

Hagia Triada Greek Orthodox Church

Set southwest of Taksim Square and opened for worship in 1880, the Hagia Triada Greek Orthodox Church is an important building identified with Taksim Square.

İstiklal Street: Galatasaray Square and beyond

When you enter İstiklal Street from Taksim Square, you’re greeted by a large crowd. This is one of the most cosmopolitan neighborhoods in İstanbul, where residents, tourists and peddlers congregate, and shops and restaurants contribute to a vibrant urban rhythm. Passages – side streets – run along İstiklal Street all the way to Galatasaray Square. Number 207 marks the Atlas Passage, erected in 1877 and one of the liveliest passages in Beyoğlu. In addition to the Atlas Cinema and Stage, the passage contains clothing and jewelry shops. Halep Passage, opposite Atlas Passage, also features colorful, alternative shops. Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage), a symbol of Beyoğlu nightlife, stands out for its atmosphere and architecture. Inspired by Italian architecture, Aznavur Passage, overlooking Galatasaray Square where Galatasaray High School is located, is home to handicraft and souvenir shops.

Just before you reach Galatasaray Square from the Taksim direction, you’ll see the famous Balık Pazar (Fish Market) on your right. Street delicacies like kokoreç and mussels are served in laid-back restaurants along the passage; the nearby Nevizade Street is a well-known nightlife destination with taverns and bars.

Galatasaray High School

Located at 159 İstiklal Street, the stately Galatasaray High School, also known as Mekteb-i Sultani (Galatasaray Imperial High School), is a Beyoğlu landmark. Founded in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II, the school’s mission was to provide a quality education to Muslim and non-Muslim children living in Ottoman lands. The long list of distinguished Galatasaray High School graduates include figures such as Tevfik Fikret, Abdi İpekçi and Barış Manço.

Historical Galatasaray Hamam

The historical Galatasaray Hamam was built at the same time as Galatasaray High School, within the Galatasaray Complex. Today, you can see this building at the end of the street when you take the first left on İstiklal Street before you reach Galatasaray High School. If you have time, you can even experience a Turkish bath.

Towards the Tünel

From Galatasaray Square, we walk towards the Tünel. As we mentioned, Tünel and Taksim Square are the anchors of İstiklal Street. Immediately after Galatasaray Square, to your left, is Yeni Çarşı Street and the Tomtom neighborhood. In this area, you’ll find nightspots like Markus Tavern or gourmet restaurants like Hodan, as well as the German Cultural Center, bookstores and design boutiques. If you continue down Yeni Çarşı Street, the road will become Boğazkesen street and eventually terminate at a small park and the Tophane tram station.

Meanwhile, between Galatasaray Square and Tünel, İstiklal Street houses numerous chain stores, boutiques and galleries, including Salt Beyoğlu, which is described later. Closer to Tünel, to the right, is Asmalı Mescit, an area known for taverns, cafes and performance venues, as well as bookstores and antique shops. On the opposite side of İstiklal is the Kumbaracı Slope, where the Michelin-starred Yeni Lokanta serves modern Turkish cuisine. You can also take a breather at the Tophane Pier, which has been the subject of songs.

Back on İstiklal, Tünel, the last stop of the famous street, offers its own charms. There’s Casa Botter, one of Beyoğlu’s most beautiful buildings (more below), or you can hop on the Historic Tünel Funicular Line and continue to Karaköy. Alternatively, you can keep walking from İstiklal, down Galip Dede Road, and visit the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum and the Galata Tower, another İstanbul landmark.

Cihangir and Çukurcuma 

Near Taksim Square are Cihangir and Çukurcuma, a pair of neighborhoods that stand out with their bohemian charm. Featuring stylish coffee shops and café-restaurants, along with antique shops, boutiques and art galleries, these picturesque districts are favorite areas for coffee dates and strolling. You can visit Firuz Aga Mosque and then the Cihangir Mosque, which has lovely Bosphorus views.

St. Antoine Church

St. Antoine Catholic Church, at 171 İstiklal Street, is the largest Catholic church in Türkiye. The first building on the site was erected in the mid-1700s, and later rebuilt in the early 20th century. Set behind a gate, the complex includes the majestic church, along with two apartment buildings and a gallery. The church can be visited on weekdays and Saturdays between 08.00-19.30 and Sundays between 10.00-19.30.

Casa Botter

At 235 İstiklal Street is Casa Botter, one of the most important structures in Beyoğlu. Built in 1900-1901, it was designed by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco, known as the “palace architect” for the Ottoman Empire. Holding the status of “Grade I Cultural Heritage in Need of Protection”, Casa Botter was erected for Jean Botter, the official tailor of the Palace, at the request of Sultan Abdülhamit II. The Botter Modaevi (fashion house), the city’s first fashion house, was opened here, and for many years hosted private fashion shows organized for the city’s elite. Although Casa Botter remained vacant for years, the structure has been restored and now serves as an exhibition and cultural venue.

Serdar-ı Ekrem Street

To reach Serdar-ı Ekrem Street, which is home to the historical Doğan Apartment, you can follow the road next to the Şişhane metro stop, on the left side of İstiklal Street. Serdar-ı Ekrem Street is a charming street where, in addition to the stately Doğan Apartment, you’ll find cafes and design boutiques. unique cafes and alternative boutiques. The end of the road leads to the Galata Tower.

Historical Tünel Funicular Line

The Historic Tünel Funicular Line was the first rail public transportation system in Türkiye and is the world’s second oldest, after the London Underground in the United Kingdom. The distance of the track between Beyoğlu and Karaköy is approximately 600 meters and takes just a few minutes.

Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum

The Galata Mevlevihanesi (Mevlevi House) Museum is at the end of İstiklal Street and the beginning of Galip Dede Street. Known as Galata Mevlevihanesi, Kulekapısı Mevlevihanesi or Galip Dede Tekke during the Ottoman period, the structure dates to 1491. The Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum, one of the most important Ottoman monuments in Beyoğlu along with Galatasaray High School, was organized as the Divan Literature Museum in 1975; it has been open as the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum since 2011.

Galata Tower

No tour of Taksim is complete without a visit to the Galata Tower, an important symbol of İstanbul. Originally erected during the Byzantine era and destroyed by the Crusaders, the tower was rebuilt in the 13th century by the Genoese living in the district. It has been deployed as a lighthouse tower, a watchtower and a prison, as well as an observatory and then as a fire observation point. The Galata Tower has been opened to tourists since 1967 and now houses a museum, in addition to an observation platform with panoramic views of the Golden Horn and Bosphorus.

Dining around Taksim

There’s no shortage of places to eat in the Taksim area. From fine dining venues to vendors selling seasonal street snacks such as roasted chestnuts and sweet summer corn, the district has a wide array of eateries. İstiklal is dotted with the famous Maraş ice cream shops, while kiosks offering the ıslak (wet) burger with sauce are clustered on the left side of Taksim Square. At the Balık Pazar, fried mussels and kokoreç are available and, in Şişhane, you can drop by Mis Pizza for a pie or sample Thai food at Pera Thai, İstanbul’s first Thai restaurant. The delicious Circassian mantı at Kallavi Street is also quite a treat.

Museums and art galleries in Taksim

As the heart of İstanbul, the Taksim area is also home to a number of distinguished art spaces, including Arter, Salt, the Pera Museum, the Yapı Kredi Kazım Taşkent Art Gallery and the Anna Laudel gallery.

Arter

Originally located on İstiklal Street, the striking Arter gallery is now in Dolapdere. The center stands out as a living and cultural platform encompassing all disciplines of art. Arter features a library and a bistro, along with a bookstore focusing on art publications.

Salt Beyoğlu

One of two Salt buildings, Salt Beyoğlu, founded in 2011, is on İstiklal Street. Entry is free of charge and the multi-level gallery includes exhibition spaces, an open cinema, a kitchen, a winter garden and a Robinson Crusoe 389 bookstore.

Yapı Kredi Kazım Taşkent Art Gallery

Opened in 1964 in a corner of Galatasaray Square under the name of Kâzım Taşkent, the founder of Yapı ve Kredi Bank, the Yapı Kredi Kazım Taşkent Art Gallery has both permanent and temporary exhibitions.

Pera Museum

The Pera Museum, which opened in the summer of 2005 in the stately Pera district, is today one of İstanbul’s most important museum-cultural centers. Built in 1893 by architect Achille Manoussos in accordance with the character of the period, and completely overhauled by architect Sinan Genim years later to serve as a museum, the Pera features permanent and temporary exhibitions, as well as a café, workshops and a cinema.