Index:
Kars at a glance: Summary
Where is Kars located?
How to go to Kars?
When to go to Kars?
Places to visit in Kars
Three-day Kars itinerary
How many days for Kars?
Urban transport in Kars
Where to eat in Kars?
What to buy from Kars?
Where to stay in Kars?
Why visit Kars?
Places to visit near Kars
A brief look at the history of Kars
Kars in popular culture
Kars at a glance: Summary
- A direct flight from İstanbul Airport to Kars Harakani Airport takes approximately 2 hours, and the Harakani Airport is just 6 kilometers away from the city center.
- The Archeological Site of Ani, which is in the UNESCO World Heritage list, is about 45 kilometers from the city center and deserves at least half a day to explore.
- For skiing and admiring snowy landscapes, the ideal months are January and February while for visiting Ani and the highlands the best time is May-September.
- Find your goose meat, piti and evelik aşı on your dinner table and put Gruyère, kaşar, kete, and honey in your luggage on the way back home.
Where is Kars located?
Kars is located in the northeast of the Eastern Anatolia Region, among the “frontier provinces” (Serhat illeri). The city center is situated on a vast highland plateau at an altitude of approximately 1,760 meters. It is bordered by Ardahan to the north, Erzurum to the west, and Ağrı and Iğdır to the south. To the east, the Arpaçay River marks the border between Türkiye and Armenia. Its geo-location directly shapes both Kars’s history and its cuisine. For centuries, the city has stood at the crossroads between the Caucasus and Anatolia.
By land, Erzurum is approximately 200 kilometers away, Ardahan 90, Iğdır 150. The most famous two stops of the city: firstly, the Archeological Site of Ani is 45 kilometers from the city center, and secondly, Sarıkamış Ski Resort 55 kilometers. So visiting Kars means traveling back and forth between the city center and its surrounding areas.
How to go to Kars?
The fastest way to get to Kars is by plane. Check the Kars flight ticket options and take the first step into planning your trip. Passengers coming from other cities of Türkiye or abroad can get to Kars via connected flights through İstanbul.
The second option is by train. The Eastern Express (Doğu Ekspresi) which travels between Ankara and Kars throughout the year completes its route of approximately 1,300 kilometers in a duration longer than a day. In winter, TCDD Transport’s Tourist Eastern Express comes into service. This train has sleeping compartments and a dining car, taking long breaks at locations such as Erzincan and Erzurum. The season typically lasts from mid-December to early March, and tickets sell out quickly, so it is advisable to keep an eye on the date sales open. Check TCDD Transport’s channels for the up-to-date schedule and pricing. If you want to continue your journey by rail after the Eastern Express, you might also want to take a look at our blog post about panoramic train routes, where you can find notable options from Türkiye and around the world.
Those who prefer to travel by road can get to Kars with buses from many cities, most notably İstanbul and Ankara. However, the distance is long: The bus journey from Istanbul takes over 20 hours. If you are driving in winter, use winter tires and carry snow chains, as road conditions can change rapidly.
How to get to the city center from Kars Harakani Airport?
The airport is about 6 kilometers from the city center, which means you won’t have trouble finding transportation in Kars. Airport shuttle buses that leave according to flights landed and municipality buses take you to the city center. You will always find taxis waiting in front of the terminal exits, but you can also rent a car from the car rental offices inside the terminal. If you have an itinerary covering Ani, Çıldır and Sarıkamış, it would be the most convenient way to rent a car.
When to go to Kars?
In Kars, seasons don’t change gradually. Depending on what month you are there, you can find a different city each time. The long-term average for January is below minus 10 degrees, and some nights have been recorded to be minus 30. Summers, however, are cool: Average temperatures in July and August remain around 18 degrees, with daytime highs ranging between 25 and 30 degrees.
The period between December and March is when photographers are attracted to Kars the most. The ski season in Sarıkamış typically starts mid-December and lasts till the beginning of April. The surface of Lake Çıldır freezes in January and February. Horse-drawn sleigh rides and Eskimo-style fishing also happen during these two months. This is also the best time to see Ani covered in snow. However, the days are short, so it is necessary to start your visit early in the morning.
You should expect a totally different Kars between May and September. It becomes very delightful to walk in Ani for hours with freshly-turned-green plateaus around. And the conditions for observing birds are the best in Lake Kuyucuk. In villages like Boğatepe, cheese production intensifies during the spring and summer months. We recommend those wishing to escape the crowds go to Kars in September, a balanced month in terms of both weather and prices.
If you happen to be in Kars in January, you can join the commemoration ceremonies and the march honoring the martyrs of Sarıkamış. This event takes place annually on the anniversary of the Sarıkamış Campaign and draws a great influx of visitors to the city. Make sure you book your accommodation early.
Places to visit in Kars
The places to visit in Kars are divided into two groups: The compact city center which you explore on foot and a large surrounding area for which you need a vehicle. Skip either of them, you’ll miss an important part of Kars.
Archeological Site of Ani
Ani was the first big stop on the Silk Road that led into Anatolia. Between the 10th and 13th centuries, it flourished as one of the region’s most populous and wealthiest cities. In 2016, it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. You can explore our comprehensive guide to discover the sites in Türkiye included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, together with Ani.
You enter the site through the Lion Gate. Beyond the kilometers long walls, the Cathedral, the Menuchir Mosque, the Church of Tigran Honents (famous for its frescoes), the St. Prkich Church, the Seljuk Bazaar, the caravanserai, and the Turkish bath ruins welcome you. Only the piers remain today of the Silk Road Bridge that once connected the two sides of the valley. Just beyond lies the Arpaçay River and the border. This is exactly what makes Ani so striking: the first Turkish mosque in Anatolia stands right beside a church, and the two share the same silence.
For the visiting tips, the archeological site is open every day. Turkish citizens can use their MüzeKart to enter; however, foreign visitors need to pay for tickets. Check muze.gov.tr for the visiting hours and prices. Keep in mind that the area is big and there is no shade except the inside of the buildings. Wearing a hat and bringing your water bottle with you are a must in the summer, and for the winter you should wear your non-slip shoes. The visit takes at least 2 hours—maybe 3 hours depending on your pace. Since public transport is limited, taxis, rental cars or day tours are convenient options.
For more information about Ani’s history, architecture and visitings tips read our Ani ancient city travel guide.
Castle of Kars
Most of the castle at the top of the city is a 12th century Saltukid work. It was destroyed and restored many times in the following centuries. Its walls made of cut basalt stones are still standing today. Looking from above, you can see at a glance how the Kars River divides the city into two and how the grid-planned Russian-era neighborhoods extend. If you can make it at sunset, you can take the best photos of the city from this point.
Kümbet Mosque (Holy Apostles Church)
The structure standing right at the foot of the castle was built as a church in the 10th century. Over the centuries, it has served as a mosque, a church, and a museum. At one time, it even housed Kars’s first archaeology museum. Today, it is an actively operating mosque. Reliefs of the apostles on the drum of the dome reveal the building’s layered history.
Kaleiçi Turkish baths and Taş Köprü (Stone Bridge)
Taş Köprü over the Kars River was built in its current form during the 16th century and is still standing. Historic Turkish baths, the Evliya Mosque, and the Tomb of Hasan Harakani are all within walking distance from each other. Following this route while going down from the castle is the easiest way to get the idea about Kars in half a day.
Baltic architecture route
Kars remained under Russian rule between 1878 and 1918, and those forty years permanently transformed the face of the city. The Yusufpaşa, Ortakapı, and Cumhuriyet neighborhoods were designed in wide, grid-patterned streets, and stone-fronted buildings were constructed. Today, the Provincial Finance Office building, the Governor’s House, the Gazi Ahmed Muhtar Pasha Mansion, and the former Russian Consulate are among the most visible examples of this heritage. The Fethiye Mosque shares this heritage as well. Originally built as a church in the 19th century, it was later converted into a mosque. Even if you do not plan to stay overnight, make sure you stop by restored mansions, such as the Hotel Cheltikov and the Hotel Katerina, for a drink.
Kars Museum
Located on Cumhuriyet Avenue, this museum exhibits the region’s archaeological and ethnographic heritage in chronological order. Artifacts discovered in the Ani excavations, local outfits and daily life items are on display here. Don’t miss the stone artifacts in the garden.
Sarıkamış Ski Resort
It is not the number of facilities that makes Sarıkamış one of Türkiye’s most unique ski resorts, it is the snow. Thanks to low humidity in the region, the crystalline snow that falls there does not freeze or stick to your equipment. You can find this type of snow in only a few places in the world—the Alps being the most famous example. The Scots pine forests surrounding the runs act as a windbreak.
The runs on Cıbıltepe offer various levels of difficulty, with a total length reaching 25 kilometers. Chairlift lines take you to the summit fast. Queues? They don’t even compare to the resorts near İstanbul. The season generally opens in mid-December and runs until early April. You can rent equipment on-site.
To find out about other ski resorts in Türkiye, check our ski resorts in Türkiye guide.
Sarıkamış Martyrs’ Memorial and monuments
Sarıkamış bears the memory of the military operation that took place during the winter of 1914-1915. Martyrs’ memorials and monuments are scattered throughout the surrounding area. The commemorative march held in January is one of the most meaningful times to visit the region. It is a place of quiet, solemn reflection. Make sure you plan your itinerary accordingly.
Katherina Hunting Lodge
Situated in the southwest of Sarıkamış, this mansion was built in the reign of Russian emperor Nicholas II between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The building combines stone foundations and sections with timber construction; its wooden elements are joined using an interlocking technique without nails. Its location in the forest creates a unique atmosphere, especially when combined with snow.
Lake Çıldır
Lying across the border between Kars and Ardahan, Lake Çıldır is the second-largest lake in Eastern Anatolia. It is also the largest freshwater lake in the region. In winter, its surface freezes completely, with the ice thickness over half a meter in some parts. During this season, you can see horse-drawn sleigh rides on the lake. Local fishermen catch fish using an Eskimo-style method which is breaking the ice to cast their nets, a process visitors can watch up close. In summer, the scene transforms entirely, with lush green shores, diverse bird species, and boat tours taking center stage.
Seafood restaurants along the shore serve the lake’s specialty: yellow fish i.e. yellow carp. Don’t forget to get confirmation from the local businesses if it’s safe to get on the ice beforehand. As March approaches, the ice gets thinner, making such walks risky.
Boğatepe village and Cheese museum
Approximately 50 kilometers from the center of Kars, Boğatepe is a highland village at an altitude of 2,300 meters. This is where Kars Gruyère cheese was born. This cheese’s story dates back to Swiss producers who arrived in the region during the 19th century, and the tradition lives on in the village today. Converted from a former dairy building, the Cheese Museum was established with the villagers’ own efforts and exhibits the Gruyère production process and the local dairy culture.
Visiting the village for breakfast is the best plan. After enjoying a breakfast with Kars kaşar, Gruyère cheese, honey, and butter, it is hard to leave without buying some cheese to take home. If you do not have time for a trip to the village, shops in Kars city center sell Boğatepe products as well.
Lake Kuyucuk Bird Paradise
Kuyucuk Lake, near Arpaçay town, is one of the most important natural habitats of Kars. Located on bird migration routes between Asia, Europe and Africa, this shallow lake creates a resting, feeding and breeding area for many birds, especially during spring and autumn migrations. The lake that has been recorded to house more than 200 bird species so far was declared Türkiye’s 13th Ramsar Site in 2009. Species such as ruddy shelduck, white-headed duck, Eurasian griffon vulture and great bustard can be observed in the lake and its surroundings. During migration periods, the number of birds in the wetland can reach tens of thousands.
The steppe landscape surrounding the protected area of approximately 416 hectares also distinguishes Kuyucuk from other nature stops in Kars. You can watch the lake and the activity around it from the bird observation tower, and find more suitable conditions for nature photography, especially early in the morning. If you are interested in bird watching, add Kuyucuk Lake to your spring or autumn itinerary and spend a few hours here.
Susuz Waterfall and Borluk Valley
Also known as Su Uçan Waterfall, Susuz (lit. lacking water) Waterfall is a stop with a lot of water, contrary to its name. And especially in spring, it gets its most magnificent state. With rocky slopes and a walking route along the stream, Borluk Valley is a good alternative for those who wish to have a quick getaway from the city. Both of these destinations are suitable for having a picnic or short walks.
Camuşlu rock paintings (petroglyphs)
You can see rock paintings dating back to the Paleolithic era on the basalt cliffs in the village of Camuşlu, in the Kağızman district. Figures of deer, wild goats, and humans show how old settlement in the area was. The route is challenging, and signage is limited. You need an off-road vehicle to reach the summit. Otherwise, climbing up takes over an hour. Moreover, due to lighting conditions, it is best to visit this area during the morning hours.
Three-day Kars itinerary
A three-day itinerary made for winter but adaptable for summer. If you take the morning flight to arrive and go back with the evening flight, you can follow this itinerary comfortably.
Day 1: City center and architectural heritage
- Morning: Transfer from the airport to the city center and check-in at the hotel. Enjoy breakfast with Kars kaşar and Gruyère cheeses, honey, and kaymak (similar to clotted milk).
- Late morning: Climb up to Kars Castle, then go down on the hillside and visit Kümbet Mosque, Evliya Mosque, and the Tomb of Hasan Harakani.
- Lunch: In the city center, have a light lunch with hangel and evelik aşı.
- Afternoon: Visit Taş Köprü (Stone Bridge) and the surrounding bathhouses, followed by a tour of the city’s Baltic-style architecture. The Provincial Finance Office, Fethiye Mosque, and historic mansions are all within walking distance. You can also fit a visit to the Kars Museum into this itinerary.
- Evening: A traditional Kars dinner featuring goose meat and bulgur pilaf. If you prefer a venue with live music, don’t forget to make a reservation beforehand.
Day 2: Ani and the border region
- Early in the morning: Visit the Archeological Site of Ani. Since days are shorter in winter, it’s better to be there as early as the opening hour.
- Midday: Take a short break near Ocaklı village, then move towards Lake Çıldır.
- Afternoon: Enjoy a horse-drawn sleigh tour on Lake Çıldır and watch ice fishing. Eat yellow fish at one of the restaurants on the shore.
- Evening: Return back to the city center. If you are tired, have a light dinner near the hotel.
Day 3: Sarıkamış and cheese route
- Morning: Travel to Sarıkamış. If you plan to ski, we recommend you allow the whole day for the runs.
- Alternative: If you don’t want to ski, take a walk in Sarıkamış Martyrs’ Memorial, Katherina Hunting Lodge and Scots pine forests.
- Afternoon: On the way back, visit Boğatepe village, Cheese Museum, and buy cheese.
- Evening: Transfer to the airport and take your return flight. Make sure your luggage has Gruyère, kaşar, honey, and kete.
How many days should I spend in Kars?
A single whole day is sufficient for those who only wish to see the city center. A visit to Ani extends the trip to two days. If you also plan to add Lake Çıldır and Sarıkamış to your itinerary, three days is the optimum duration. However, if you want to make it a ski vacation, it makes more sense to stay in Sarıkamış for four to seven nights and visit the city center as a day trip. If you intend to add stops such as Kağızman, Digor, and Kuyucuk, you should plan for a four-day trip.
Urban transport in Kars
The city center of Kars is small and walkable. There are 15 to 20 minute distances between attractions like the Castle, Kümbet Mosque, Taş Köprü, museum and historical streets. You can use municipality buses and taxis within the city center. What may create a problem is peripheral routes. Regular public transport to Ani, Çıldır and Sarıkamış is limited, so you have three options:
Where to eat in Kars?
The cuisine of Kars has been shaped by its harsh climate and a culture of livestock farming. It is built around a trio of flour, dairy products, and meat, all enriched with local herbs.
At the top of the list, there is tandoor-cooked goose meat served with bulgur pilaf. Add these to your what-to-eat list: hangel served with yoghurt and onions sautéed in oil, piti with chickpeas and meat, evelik aşı made from the sorrel-like evelik (bitter dock) herb, kete made from butter-kneaded dough, nezik bread cooked on a sac (a type of pan), and umaç halva. As for breakfast, Gruyère, kaşar, chechil, honey, and kaymak take center stage.
In order to taste local dishes, you can visit restaurants in Kars city center such as Hanımeli Kars Mutfağı and Kars Kaz Evi. Their menus feature various Kars dishes—most notably goose meat—as well as hangel and piti. If you wish to start the day with a breakfast including local products, Kars Kahvaltı Evi is one of the good options. When visiting Lake Çıldır, you can try the local freshwater fish, known in the region as “yellow fish”, at the lakeside restaurants.
What to buy from Kars?
Cheese is one of the items for which you should save the most space in your suitcase when returning from Kars. Kars Gruyère, produced using traditional methods in Boğatepe, gets its distinctive taste through a months-long maturation process. Fresh and aged kaşar cheese, stringy chechil cheese, and various other locally produced cheeses are also among your options. Kars honey collecting the aromas of the rich highland flora, along with kete pastry, lavash flatbread, dried goose meat, and kavılca bulgur, are the other items that should be in your list of local products to buy.
If you want to buy these items without going to Boğatepe, you can go to the shops in the Kars city center, like Boğatepe Köyü Pazarı, Taşkın Ticaret Kaşar Peyniri ve Balcılık, and Tarihi Zavotlar Kars. When you buy Gruyère and aged kaşar cheese, it would be better to ask about the product’s maturation period and storage conditions, and especially if you have a long return journey, consider vacuum-packaging options.
Where to stay in Kars?
There are two groups when it comes to where to stay in Kars: One is the city center, and the other is Sarıkamış. Staying in the city center is the right option for those who want to walk amidst the historic structures and be close to Ani and Çıldır routes. Boutique hotels converted from Russian era mansions are one of the most enjoyable ways to experience the vibe of this city. Hotel Cheltikov and Hotel Katerina are the most famous examples of this group while smaller hotels with fewer rooms like Kars Hotel are also available in the city center.
If you plan a vacation more focused on skiing, choosing a hotel close to the runs in Sarıkamış makes more sense. Most of these facilities offer shuttle services to the runs and operate on a full-board basis. Occupancy rates of these hotels are high between January and February, so booking early can give you a price advantage. However, do not stay in Sarıkamış if your trip focuses on Ani and the city center. Doing so unnecessarily would increase daily travel time.
Why visit Kars?
Kars achieves something a few Turkish cities can: It offers you a great variety of different layers of experience—all in a single day. In the morning, you stand in front of a thousand-year-old cathedral while in the afternoon, you walk on a frozen lake. And in the evening, you sit down at a dinner table where the Caucasus and Anatolia meet. People travel here specifically for Ani’s UNESCO-listed heritage, the crystalline snow of Sarıkamış, and the cheese-making traditions of Boğatepe.
Then there is the matter of crowds. In Ani, you often hear nothing but the sound of your own footsteps, and there are almost no chairlift queues on the Sarıkamış runs.
Places to visit near Kars
If you wish to make Kars part of a regional tour, the neighboring provinces offer great options. Ardahan is approximately 90 kilometers away, offering attractions such as the other shore of Lake Çıldır, Şeytan Castle, and the Ardahan highlands. Located about 200 kilometers away, Erzurum requires a dedicated itinerary featuring the Double Minaret Madrasa (Çifte Minareli Medrese), Yakutiye Madrasa, and the Palandöken ski runs. Those who will be near Iğdır and Ağrı can add Mount Ararat and the Ishak Pasha Palace to their route. If you are taking the Eastern Express, Erzurum is already one of the long stops on the train route. If you are planning a longer trip combining Kars with Erzurum, Iğdır, and Ağrı, you might want to check out our Eastern Anatolia travel itinerary.
A brief look at the history of Kars
Traces of settlement in Kars and its surroundings date back to the Paleolithic era. The rock paintings in Camuşlu are the most tangible evidence of this. Following the Urartians, the region came under the rule of the Sassanids, Byzantines, Bagratids, and Seljuks respectively. Sultan Alp Arslan’s conquest of Ani in 1064 marked the beginning of the city’s Turkic-Islamic era. Ani was largely abandoned after the earthquake in 1605 and grew quiet as trade routes shifted.
After the 1878 Treaty of Berlin, Kars was ruled by Russians for forty years. During this period, the city was rebuilt with a grid-pattern urban design, and a Baltic architectural style was introduced. The tradition of producing Gruyère cheese was also brought to the region during these years. The events following 1918 culminated in the 1921 Treaty of Kars, which established the region’s new borders. Kars later became part of the Republic of Türkiye following its establishment in 1923. Today, every street you walk bears the traces of these superimposed historical layers.
Kars in popular culture
Kars’s snow-covered streets, stone architecture, and identity as a border city have inspired numerous works across literature, cinema, and television. One of the most renowned works set in the city is Orhan Pamuk’s novel Snow. The story follows the protagonist, a poet named Ka, whose path leads him to Kars for an interview. Amidst heavy snowfall, the city’s streets, teahouses, and hotels become key elements that define the atmosphere of the narrative. Thus, in the novel, Kars emerges not merely as a setting for events, but almost as a character itself.
Kars appears also in cinematic works. Reha Erdem’s film Kosmos takes the city’s winter landscapes and border geography and turns them into a background for a surreal story. Piano Girl, directed by Murat Saraçoğlu, bears traces of Kars’s Molokan past and taps into the region’s cultural memory through the character of Mişka, portrayed by Tarık Akan. Meanwhile, in Tales of Intransigence (directed by Reis Çelik and starring Tuncel Kurtiz) the frozen Lake Çıldır, horse-drawn sleighs, and the region’s aşık (bardic) tradition lie at the heart of the narrative. The fact that much of the film was shot on the frozen Lake Çıldır and in the surrounding villages makes you familiar with the landscapes you will encounter during your trip to Kars.
Kars has also recently become popular with a TV show. The storyline of the series Veliaht which began airing on Show TV in 2025 shifted to Kars in early 2026, bringing the cast and production crew to the city to film new episodes. In these episodes, which delve into the history of the Karslı family, the city’s winter atmosphere and stone architecture became integral elements of the series’ visual aesthetic. This way, Kars continues to secure its place in a broad pop-culture legacy from the novel Snow and films like Kosmos and Piano Girl to contemporary television shows.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a flight take to Kars?
From İstanbul Airport to Kars Harakani Airport, a direct flight takes about 2 hours and 10 minutes. The airport is located 6 kilometers away from the city center, which takes a maximum of 15 minutes to get there from the airport.
When is the best time of the year to visit Kars?
For the snow-covered landscapes, skiing and frozen Lake Çıldır, the best time is January-February. For visiting Ani more comfortably, admiring green plateaus and observing birds, it’s best to go to Kars in May-September. September is particularly a good time for mild weather and low popularity.
How can I go to the Archeological Site of Ani? Is there an entrance fee?
Ani is in Ocaklı village, approximately 45 kilometers away from the Kars city center. Since public transportation options are limited, visitors usually opt for taxis, rental cars or day visits. The site has an entrance fee. Turkish citizens can use their MüzeKarts. For visiting hours and pricing, visit muze.gov.tr.
How many days should I spend in Kars?
One day is sufficient for the city center. Include Ani, add one more day. Include Lake Çıldır and Sarıkamış, add two more days. If you want to see Kağızman and Digor as well, make it 4 days in total.
When does the ski season open in Sarıkamış?
The season typically starts mid-December and lasts till the beginning of April. January and February are the best option for those looking to experience the best of the crystalline snow. The ski resort management announces the dates for the season each year.
When do I experience horse-drawn sleigh rides and ice fishing on Lake Çıldır?
Usually, the surface of the lake is completely frozen in January and February, so the events are held in these months. In March, the ice gets thinner. Make sure you ask the local businesses if it’s safe before you step on the frozen lake.
What products should I buy from Kars?
Gruyère and kaşar are at the top of this list. You can buy both of them from the Boğatepe village or local product shops in the city center. Honey, kete, çeçil cheese, dried goose meat, and kavılca bulgur are also among the popular products.
