HomeTrip ideasHistoryThe capital of the Hittites: Hattusha Ancient City

The capital of the Hittites: Hattusha Ancient City

Located in the BoฤŸazkale district of ร‡orum, Hattusha was built on a rocky rise overlooking the surrounding plain and served as the capital of the Hittite Great Kingdom for nearly four centuries. With its eight-kilometer fortification walls, monumental lion gates, the rock-carved open-air sanctuary of Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya, and one of the world's richest collections of cuneiform tablets, it is an extraordinary site where visitors can read Anatolia's story as it was written more than three thousand years ago.

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To begin: A Few Things to Know About Hattusha

  • Location: BoฤŸazkale district, ร‡orum. Located within the boundaries of BoฤŸazkรถy-Alacahรถyรผk National Park.
  • UNESCO: Listed as a World Heritage Site since 1986.
  • How much time: Allow a full day for Hattusha and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya; two to three days if you also plan to visit the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum and Alacahรถyรผk.
  • Best time to visit: Spring and autumn. MuseumPass is accepted at the site.

Where is Hattusha and why was it built there?

Historical stone relief depicting the Twelve Gods of the Hittites, carved side by side into the rock face at the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya sanctuary near the ancient city of Hattusha, each wearing a pointed headdress and a long skirt
Historical stone relief depicting the Twelve Gods of the Hittites, carved side by side into the rock face at the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya sanctuary near the ancient city of Hattusha, each wearing a pointed headdress and a long skirt

Hattusha is located in the BoฤŸazkale district of ร‡orum in northern Central Anatolia. The city was built on a rocky slope rising about 300 meters above the floor of the Budakรถzรผ Stream valley at the valleyโ€™s southern end. It lies approximately 200 kilometers from Ankara, 85 kilometers from central ร‡orum, and 30 kilometers from Sungurlu.

Its location was no coincidence. The topography is more open to the north, while the other sides are protected by steep slopes and fortifications, making the settlement naturally defensible. The UNESCO-protected area encompasses not only the urban core but also the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya rock sanctuary to the north, Kayalฤฑ BoฤŸaz to the east, ฤฐbikรงam Forest to the south, and the Osmankayasฤฑ necropolis. Outer defensive points, such as Kayalฤฑ BoฤŸaz, are believed to have been established to monitor the routes linking the Anatolian interior to the north, east, and south. Hattusha was not merely a fortress built for defense; it was also a center that controlled the surrounding road network.

One detail makes this location even more intriguing. The Central Anatolian plateau, with its fragmented topography and limited rainfall, did not yield the agricultural abundance of Mesopotamia or the Nile Valley. This also helps explain why the Hittites built so many dams, reservoirs, storage facilities, and grain silos. According to archaeologist Andreas Schachner, the storage and water-management structures at the Kฤฑzฤฑlฤฑrmak bend became a main pillar of the imperial economy after the 16th century BCE. In other words, Hattusha can be understood not only as a royal city in the traditional sense but also as a capital designed to ensure a reliable supply system and logistics network.

If you are interested in the early civilizations of Anatolia, you can also read this guide alongside ourย Gรถbeklitepe travel guideย andย Gordion travel guide.


How to get to Hattusha?

Stone foundations in the foreground and reconstructed mudbrick city walls with defensive towers in the background at the Ancient City of Hattusha in ร‡orum
Stone foundations in the foreground and reconstructed mudbrick city walls with defensive towers in the background at the Ancient City of Hattusha in ร‡orum

The most practical way to reach Hattusha is to combine air and road travel. The closest airport to the archaeological site is Amasya Merzifon Airport, about 65 kilometers from ร‡orum. For those seeking a wider range of flight options, Ankara EsenboฤŸa Airport, about 200 kilometers away, is another option. You can plan your trip by booking a flight toย Amasyaย orย Ankara, then continue to ร‡orum or Sungurlu by rental car or bus before heading to BoฤŸazkale.

If you are traveling by road from Ankara, the route passes through Kฤฑrฤฑkkale, Delice, and Sungurlu before reaching the BoฤŸazkale turnoff. From Sungurlu, the archaeological site is about a 30-minute drive away. Visitors arriving from the east can reach the area via Tokat, Zile, or Yozgat. The total drive from Ankara takes about two and a half hours.

Those who prefer public transportation can take an intercity bus to ร‡orum or Sungurlu, then a minibus to BoฤŸazkale. However, because public transportation is limited between the archaeological site and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya, as well as within the national park, exploring the area by rental car or taxi can save time and energy.


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When is the best time to go to Hattusha?

Carved stone foundations of the Great Temple in the Ancient City of Hattusha, BoฤŸazkale, ร‡orum
Carved stone foundations of the Great Temple in the Ancient City of Hattusha, BoฤŸazkale, ร‡orum

In Central Anatoliaโ€™s continental climate, the most comfortable seasons to visit are spring and autumn. May and June, as well as September and October, offer pleasant temperatures for walking and a quieter archaeological site. During these months, the plainโ€™s green tones contrast beautifully with the gray stone walls, creating particularly rewarding conditions for photography.

Summer can be challenging, with very little shade, and the sloping routes can be exhausting during the hottest hours of the day. If you visit in July or August, it is best to start early in the morning and spend the hottest hours in the cooler surroundings of the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum. Winter brings its own challenges. Snow and ice can make both access to the site and walking along the hillsides more difficult, and visiting hours may be reduced during this period. For the latest visitor information, check the official website of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.


Places to visit in Hattusha

A close-up view of the intricately carved winged sphinx stone sculptures at the Sphinx Gate in the Ancient City of Hattusha, ร‡orum, beneath a cloudy sky
A close-up view of the intricately carved winged sphinx stone sculptures at the Sphinx Gate in the Ancient City of Hattusha, ร‡orum, beneath a cloudy sky

The city comprises two main sections: the Lower City, closer to the plain, and the Upper City, on higher ground. The Lower City was the center of dense settlement and home to the Great Temple. The Upper City, by contrast, was a sacred quarter, distinguished by its temples, monumental gates, and rock-cut monuments. If you have only one day to explore Hattusha, the following stops should be your top priorities.

The Great Temple

The Great Temple in the Lower City was the principal sanctuary of the state cult and is widely believed to have been dedicated to Teshub, the Storm God, and the Sun Goddess of Arinna. With its surrounding courtyards, workshops, archive rooms, and extensive rows of storage facilities, the complex served not only religious ceremonies but also administrative and economic functions. Massive storage jars once stood in these storage areas. Today, the temple foundations, courtyard, and storage sections are still clearly visible on site.

Bรผyรผkkale and the Palace Archive

Bรผyรผkkale is the palace terrace where the royal residence and central administration were located. Known in Hittite texts as the โ€œGreat House,โ€ this complex served as the administrative heart of the state. In the nearby West Building and the Palace Archive, archaeologists uncovered approximately 3,300 bullae and 30 cuneiform tablets across two basement levels. Most bullae bear royal seals, while some bear the seals of queens. These small clay seal impressions reveal the sophistication of Hattushaโ€™s bureaucracy in sealed documents, storage systems, and palace communication.

Upper City temple zone

Much of the Upper City is occupied by a cult district comprising numerous temples spread across the landscape. Among them are structures built on rocky outcrops such as Sarฤฑ Kale and Yenicekale. For a long time, this part of the city was thought to have developed later, particularly during the reign of King Tudhaliya IV. Recent excavations, however, suggest that its development may have begun much earlier, possibly in the first half of the 16th century BCE. In other words, the chronology of this temple city beneath your feet remains a subject of ongoing debate.

The Lion Gate, Kingโ€™s Gate and Yerkapฤฑ

The historic Lion Gate at the Ancient City of Hattusha
The historic Lion Gate at the Ancient City of Hattusha

The Lion Gate in the southwestern part of the Upper City and the Kingโ€™s Gate in the southeast are monumental city gates dating to the 13th century BCE. Flanked by reliefs of lions and warrior gods, these gateways served both defensive and ceremonial functions and are among the best-known examples of Hittite monumental stonework.

At the southern end of the city stands Yerkapฤฑ, one of the site’s most striking engineering feats. Here, a massive artificially raised earthwork, or bastion, is pierced by a stone postern tunnel, with the Sphinx Gate above. In recent years, the discovery of painted Anatolian hieroglyphs on at least 249 stone blocks within the postern has led researchers to suggest that the structure may have been built primarily for ceremonial rather than defensive purposes. The original BoฤŸazkรถy sphinxes are now on display at the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum.

NiลŸantepe and Chamber 2 at Gรผneykale

NiลŸantepe contains one of the longest hieroglyphic inscriptions from the Hittite Empire period. Although part of its surface has worn away, it remains preserved in situ. Nearby at Gรผneykale, the monumental Chamber 2, decorated with reliefs and hieroglyphic inscriptions, dates to the reign of Suppiluliuma II, one of the last Hittite kings. Together, these two monuments illustrate how Hattusha wove writing and visual propaganda into the city’s fabric.

Bรผyรผkkaya, Granaries, and Water Structures

Bรผyรผkkaya, on the eastern side of the city, along with the surrounding grain storage facilities and reservoirs, reveals a side of Hattusha that is less visible but perhaps even more important. The underground granaries, capable of storing hundreds of tons of grain, and the water-storage basins formed a system designed to withstand famine and siege. Without these structures, it would be difficult to understand how Hattusha survived and flourished.

Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya Open-Air Sanctuary

Historical Hittite relief figures carved into the natural rock face at the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya Open-Air Sanctuary near the Ancient City of Hattusha in ร‡orum
Historical Hittite relief figures carved into the natural rock face at the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya Open-Air Sanctuary near the Ancient City of Hattusha in ร‡orum

Located just north of the archaeological site, Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya contains the most powerful visual expression of Hittite religion, carved into the rock walls of its Chambers A and B. During its earliest phase, the sanctuary was enclosed by a wall, isolating it from the outside world. In later periods, it acquired monumental entrances and a gallery-like layout. In the Great Gallery, the central scene depicts the meeting of the Storm God Teshub and his consort Hepat. The Small Gallery features the Twelve Underworld Gods, King Tudhaliya IV under Sarruma’s protection, and the Sword God Nergal. New Year ceremonies are believed to have been held here. This was where rituals performed in the enclosed temples of Hattusha were reenacted in the open air before a full assembly of gods.


A three-day Hittite itinerary

If you have more time, exploring Hattusha and the surrounding Hittite sites together is one of the best ways to understand the region’s history as a whole rather than in fragments.

Day 1: Hattusha and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya

Begin the day at the Great Temple in the Lower City. Then drive up to explore the Lion Gate, Kingโ€™s Gate, and Yerkapฤฑ. From the top of the Yerkapฤฑ bastion, the view across the plain offers one of the dayโ€™s best photo opportunities. In the afternoon, continue north to Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya and end the day in front of its remarkable rock reliefs.

Day 2: BoฤŸazkรถy Museum and Alacahรถyรผk

Spend the morning at the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum. The museum displays artifacts chronologically, from the Chalcolithic Age through the Byzantine period. Highlights include the Hittite gallery and the BoฤŸazkรถy sphinxes, including the sphinx returned from Berlin in 2011. In the afternoon, continue to Alacahรถyรผk, about 30 kilometers from Hattusha. With archaeological layers dating back to the pre-Hittite Hatti period, the siteโ€™s famous gate lions and royal tombs reveal an even older chapter in the regionโ€™s history.

Day 3: Central ร‡orum and Sapinuva

Spend your final day in the center of ร‡orum. At the ร‡orum Museum, you can examine artifacts unearthed at Hattusha, visit historic landmarks such as the Ulu Mosque, and pick up the cityโ€™s famous ร‡orum roasted chickpeas before you leave. If you are particularly interested in Hittite history, Sapinuva, near Ortakรถy, is well worth adding to your itinerary as another important Hittite administrative and religious center.


Why should you visit Hattusha?

Historical rock reliefs depicting God Sarruma and King Tudhaliya in the narrow rock corridor of the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya Open-Air Sanctuary
Historical rock reliefs depicting God Sarruma and King Tudhaliya in the narrow rock corridor of the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya Open-Air Sanctuary

The significance of Hattusha extends far beyond that of a mere capital city. This was a place where the palace, temples, granaries, water-management systems, and state archives were integrated within a single urban framework, almost as if the administrative mind of the Hittite state had been cast in stone. It was precisely this sense of wholeness that led UNESCO to inscribe the city on the World Heritage List in 1986 under four criteria. The designated heritage area covers 268.46 hectares.

One of the world’s richest bronze age archives

Perhaps Hattushaโ€™s greatest gift is writing. Approximately 25,000 tablets have been discovered in the BoฤŸazkรถy Archive, and the texts range from international treaties and diplomatic correspondence to legal documents, festival and ritual calendars, mythological narratives, and administrative records. The most famous is the Treaty of Kadesh, widely recognized as the world’s earliest known written peace treaty.

There is also a recent detail you will not find in older travel guides. During the 2023 excavations, archaeologists identified a previously unknown language, Kalasma, embedded in a Hittite ritual text unearthed on the slopes of Ambarlฤฑkaya in Hattusha. Hittite scribes were known to record rituals performed in foreign languages, and this text contains a chant from the land of Kalasma, believed to have been located in the area of present-day Bolu and Gerede. Specialists say the language was closely related to Luwian and part of the Anatolian branch of the Indo-European language family. As a result, another language was added to the archive, alongside Hittite, Luwian, Palaic, and Hattic. Thanks to discoveries like this, Hattusha stands not only as the most detailed written source for Hittite history but also as the most comprehensive written source for the entire Late Bronze Age Near East.

The city of a thousand gods: Religion and Ritual

The common description of the Hittites as a “people of a thousand gods” reflects cultural diversity rather than a literal count of deities. In Hattusha, Hattian, Hurrian, Mesopotamian, and local Anatolian traditions converged within the same ritual landscape. This is most clearly seen at the Great Temple and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya. The relief program at Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya unites ideas of lineage, kingship, and cosmic order within a single monumental scene.

An excavation story ongoing since 1834

Hattusha holds a unique place in the history of modern archaeology because its discovery and decipherment advanced almost in tandem. In 1834, Charles Texier introduced the ruins to the world and produced the first drawings of the Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya reliefs. During the 1906 excavations led by Hugo Winckler and Theodor Makridi, about 2,500 tablet fragments were uncovered, confirming beyond doubt that the site was Hattusha. In 1915, Bedล™ich Hroznรฝ deciphered the Hittite language. In the decades that followed, Kurt Bittel, and later Peter Neve and Jรผrgen Seeher, emerged as some of the most influential figures in the field. Today, excavations continue under the direction of Andreas Schachner and a multidisciplinary research team.

Where are the most famous artifacts displayed?

Some of the best-known artifacts from Hattusha are displayed in museums outside the site. The tablets of the Treaty of Kadesh are housed at the Istanbul Archaeological Museums, while the famous Bronze Tablet recording the agreement between King Tudhaliya IV and Kurunta is on display at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. A seal impression belonging to Hattusili III and Puduhepa, a bronze sword, and various cult objects are on display at the ร‡orum Museum. When planning your trip, keep in mind that some of the structures you explore at Hattusha are complemented by artifacts preserved in museums. Together, they offer a fuller picture of the city and the civilization that once flourished there.

A site still being reinterpreted

Hattusha is not a “completed” excavation. Questions about how early the Upper City developed, whether Yerkapฤฑ functioned primarily as a defensive structure or a ceremonial monument, and what caused the city’s collapse in the early 12th century BCE remain debated. While the prevailing interpretation in recent years has emphasized economic hardship and internal instability, some researchers argue that the system suffered from deeper structural vulnerabilities.

A striking piece of evidence has entered this debate in recent years. A study published in Nature, based on the tree rings of approximately 3,200-year-old juniper trees from Central Anatolia, points to a severe drought that lasted three consecutive years, in 1198, 1197, and 1196 BCE. Those years closely coincide with the period when the Hittite system began to unravel. Even if climate was not the sole cause of the collapse, it may have been one of the final blows to a capital that had invested so heavily in granaries and water-management systems. In that sense, Hattusha continues to yield new evidence not only for visitors but also for scholarship.


What should you buy in ร‡orum and BoฤŸazkale?

Close-up of yellow ร‡orum roasted chickpeas, highlighted by their distinctive dark roasting marks
Close-up of yellow ร‡orum roasted chickpeas, highlighted by their distinctive dark roasting marks

The region’s best-known specialty is ร‡orum leblebi, a roasted chickpea snack available in plain, salted, and spiced forms. It makes an ideal souvenir and a convenient snack on the road. You can buy it fresh from the many leblebi shops in central ร‡orum.

At the sales points around the archaeological site, you can also find small replicas inspired by Hittite motifs and sun-disc figures, along with books. Prints featuring the reliefs of Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya or Hittite seals can serve as simple yet meaningful mementos of your visit.


Where to eat around Hattusha?

As the closest settlement to the archaeological site, BoฤŸazkale is the most convenient place to stop for a meal. Local restaurants serve grilled dishes, gรถzleme, and homemade mantฤฑ, hearty fare after a long day of walking the site’s slopes and ruins.

If you would like to explore the best-known flavors of ร‡orum cuisine, you will need to head to the city center. ฤฐskilip dolmasฤฑ, ร‡orum mantฤฑsฤฑ, and a variety of slow-cooked casseroles are among the region’s signature dishes.

Because the area is rural and the main sites are spread out, it is worth building meal breaks into your itinerary. Dining options near the archaeological site may be limited, so starting the day with a good breakfast in BoฤŸazkale or ร‡orum and carrying water and a light snack can make your visit more comfortable. Many of the region’s traditional dishes are prepared well in advance, making them easier to find at lunchtime. If you plan to set out later in the day, it is wise to confirm your chosen restaurant’s opening hours beforehand.


Practical information

Hattusha and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya are located within the BoฤŸazkรถy-Alacahรถyรผk National Park and are open to visitors every day of the week. Because opening hours, closing times, and ticket information may vary by season and local administrative decisions, it is best to check the latest details on the day of your visit via the Ministry of Culture and Tourism’s official website. MuseumPass is accepted at the entrance.

Because the site is expansive, spread across multiple areas, and includes sloping terrain, planning your visit by car and starting early in the day will make the experience much easier. Be sure to bring sturdy walking shoes, plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen. For accommodations, BoฤŸazkale offers bungalow-style and boutique guesthouse options set in nature, while those seeking a wider range of facilities can choose from hotels in central ร‡orum.

Nearby attractions

You can use Hattusha as a base and combine several Hittite sites into a single itinerary. The rock sanctuary of Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya lies just minutes north of the archaeological site. Alacahรถyรผk is about 30 kilometers away, while Sapinuva, near Ortakรถy, is a bit farther. If you are arriving from Ankara, Bรผklรผkale, within Kฤฑrฤฑkkale’s borders, can make for an interesting stop along the way. This Hittite military center on the banks of the Kฤฑzฤฑlฤฑrmak River made headlines in 2023 when researchers deciphered an inscription on a newly discovered royal seal that read, “Whoever breaks this shall die.” Given that capital punishment is generally thought to have been relatively uncommon in Hittite law, the warning offers a striking indication of how seriously the agreement was regarded.

A brief history

Evidence of settlement at Hattusha dates to the Chalcolithic Age. During the Assyrian Trade Colonies period, the city appears in written records as “Hattus.” In the 1700s BCE, Anitta of Kussara captured and destroyed the city. In the mid-17th century BCE, Hattusili I rebuilt it and made it the capital of his kingdom. During the imperial period, the city expanded southward into what is now the Upper City, and many of its monumental fortifications and gates were constructed. Although King Muwatalli II briefly moved the capital to Tarhuntassa, Hattusha remained the empire’s principal center. In the early 12th century BCE, the Hittite state collapsed, and the city was abandoned for a long period. In the centuries that followed, the site was occupied during the Phrygian, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods.

Key Milestones:

  • 6th millennium BCE:ย Earliest evidence of settlement.
  • 19thโ€“18th centuries BCE:ย Assyrian Trade Colonies period; the name โ€œHattusโ€ appears in written records.
  • Mid-17th century BCE:ย Hattusili I rebuilds the city and makes it the capital.
  • 14thโ€“13th centuries BCE:ย Imperial period; construction of monumental fortification walls and expansion of the Upper City.
  • 1190โ€“1180 BCE:ย Collapse of the capital system and abandonment of the city.
  • 1834:ย Charles Texier introduces the ruins to the world.
  • 1906:ย Systematic excavations begin.
  • 1986:ย Inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Frequently asked questions

Is Hattusha the same place as BoฤŸazkรถy?

Yes. Both names refer to the same ancient city. “Hattusha” is the city’s Hittite-era name, while “BoฤŸazkรถy” is the modern name, derived from the neighboring village and museum. Today, the district is known as BoฤŸazkale.

Is it possible to visit Hattusha in one day?

Yes. With a car and good time management, you can visit both Hattusha and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya in a single day. If you also want to include the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum and Alacahรถyรผk, it is worth setting aside a second day.

Are Hattusha and Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya visited separately?

The two sites are close to each other and are usually visited on the same trip. Because the distance between them is short, it is easy to see both in a single day. You only need to confirm the current ticket coverage at the entrance.

Is Hattusha difficult to explore on foot? Can you visit with children?

The site is large and features sloping terrain, so comfortable walking shoes are essential. Because many of the main areas are accessible by car, families with children can visit without difficulty. Even so, extra care is advisable around the Upper City and Yerkapฤฑ.

Where are Hattusha’s famous tablets and sphinxes displayed?

The BoฤŸazkรถy sphinxes are on display at the BoฤŸazkรถy Museum. The tablets of the Treaty of Kadesh are housed at the Istanbul Archaeological Museums. The Bronze Tablet recording the agreement between Tudhaliya IV and Kurunta is on display at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. Various seal impressions and cult objects are on display at the ร‡orum Museum.

Why Is Hattusha a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Hattusha was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1986 for preserving the integrity of a Hittite capital, including its fortification walls, monumental gates, palace and temple complexes, the reliefs at Yazฤฑlฤฑkaya, and its extensive written archive. The BoฤŸazkรถy tablets have also been on UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register since 2001.

*The date of this blog post may have been updated due to additional content. Please be aware that information on fees and transportation is subject to change. The content of this post reflects the author's opinion and views.

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