İstanbul, city of cats: #Catstanbul

Fluffy and furry, adorable boopable noses, and a full menu of meows …There is a place in İstanbul for every member of the cat population. These soft bundles of joy occupy a huge place in the hearts of İstanbulites and share their lives across the city. On almost every street in İstanbul, there are food and water bowls for the cats, along with kitty ‘houses’. Residents of each district care for the street cats and municipalities provide free health services to strays. The cats of İstanbul seem to have their own domains and, to be honest, sometimes they look as if they’re ready to take over yours, too. But you are unlikely to see such fat, healthy and happy cats anywhere else in the world, and those in İstanbul emanate the confidence of creatures who know they are cherished. It would not be wrong to call the city Catstanbul!

Why do the people of İstanbul love cats so much? This is not a difficult question to answer: sincerity and honesty come first here, where you can always find someone who will listen to you and help you. We can illustrate İstanbul’s love for cats with a quote from Ernest Hemingway.

“A cat has absolute emotional honesty: human beings, for one reason or another, may hide their feelings, but a cat does not.”

Ernest Hemingway

İstanbul’s feline history: Where did they come from?

Those curious about the history of cats in İstanbul must delve deep into the past. While the history of domesticated cats is not quite as long as that of dogs, İstanbul’s relationship with cats begins with the Anatolian and Ancient Egyptian civilizations. 

We know that, in Ancient Egypt, cats were considered quite important and were even sometimes buried with pharaohs. Since the pharaohs were believed to be “god-kings” in ancient Egyptian culture, we could say that cats were also considered sacred beings; in fact, Bastet, the Egyptian goddess who was believed to provide protection, pleasure, good health, had the head of a cat. In later times, Bastet was the guardian of women, children and domestic cats. 

In Mesopotamia, among the areas where agriculture was first developed, cats kept the rodent population in balance, preventing these creatures from eating grain and spreading disease. This was the first step of a sincere friendship forged between feline and human in Anatolia.

Scientific studies show that all cats are of Anatolian and Egyptian origin. In a joint study by Sapienza University of Rome and the Royal Belgian Institute of Natural Sciences, scientists Claudio Ottoni, Wim Van Neer, Bea de Cupere and Julien Daligault examined the DNA of more than 200 cat remains to reach this conclusion. Cats fed as hunters in Anatolia adapted to city life in Ottoman times, and the cat population in İstanbul increased every century. Thus, cat culture in İstanbul has unfolded…

Furry friends of the Sultans: Cats in the Ottoman Empire

The Ottomans played a major role in integrating cats into the fabric of İstanbul. In the capital and in other cities of the enormous empire, foundations were established for street animals. People called “mancacı” worked on behalf of these foundations and one of their responsibilities was to feed stray animals. 

The foundations were concerned with all animals, not just cats. For example, during very cold winters, meat and offal were regularly distributed in certain areas, to prevent wild animals from coming into the towns. The Ottomans also instituted animal welfare regulations; 16th-century records show that aging animals (especially horses) were prohibited from heavy work.

Like most people of the Ottoman Empire, the sultans were very fond of cats. Sultan Abdulhamid II particularly loved cats, as frequently mentioned in the biography written by his daughter, Ayşe Osmanoğlu. The Sultan’s relationship with his cat, called Ağa Efendi, was such that the cat would break up the domino stones while the Sultan and his daughter played, and then recline in the middle of the game.

In the Ottoman Empire, people also left bequests for stray animals. The monies – left by proxy to bakers, butchers, servants, and mancacıs – were spent on feeding street animals. In one example, Koca Mustafa Pasha stated in his will that two poles (a kind of long stick on which the meat is wrapped) of liver a day should be given to the Sheikh Evhadüddin Tekke in İstanbul for the cats.

Cat parks of İstanbul: A meeting point for nature and cat lovers

Let us leave history and return to the present, to a peaceful visit in the parks of the mega-metropolis İstanbul. Fenerbahçe Park, on the Asian side, and Maçka Park, on the European side, are renowned for their cat habitats. You can observe cats of all colors, sizes and ages in these parks. You might even be able to pet their highnesses, if they’re in the right mood.  

As they say, a human doesn’t own a cat, a cat owns a human. Some cats are affectionate with humans, while others stay away. Be considerate. Bring your hand slowly to the cat’s nose; if it responds in a positive manner, perhaps you can give it a pat or many. Beware though: some cats may respond with lightning-quick claws!

Don’t be surprised if a cat that is avoiding you, approaches someone else with affection. Cats have a strong sense of smell and each has its own preferences with regard to the scent of a particular human.

Famous cats of İstanbul: Gli and Tombili

Some of İstanbul’s cats have become quite well known. Tombili was a plump white and tabby cat who became famous for “caps” (meme). Her most circulated photo features her reclining – in a casual, almost human pose – in front of a Kebapçı sign. While Tombili is, sadly, no longer among us, thanks to a life-size sculpture in her memory, she has attained immortality on the streets of Ziverbey. 

However, İstanbul’s most eminent cat was most likely Gli. A green-eyed tabby, Gli served as the de facto guardian of the Hagia Sophia Mosque from 2004. She passed away in 2020 – amid great mourning from cat fanciers throughout the world. Gli had her own Instagram page, with 100,000 followers, and was featured in thousands of other photos from the Hagia Sophia, including one with former US President Barack Obama. Gli is now a part of Hagia Sophia lore and is probably one of the most famous cats in the world.

Where to shoot a cat video in İstanbul: 10 cat spots in İstanbul

We conclude this cat love-filled article with eight recommendations for the best places to see (and photograph) cats in İstanbul:

• Maçka Park
• Fenerbahçe Park
• Moda Beach
• Cihangir
• Balat
• Sultanahmet
• Gülhane Park
• Yıldız Park

Diary of an İstanbul cat